Note the comment on base wads. When you mess with the head of a shotshell, you might be messing with the way the base wad is secured. Not all shotshell hulls are the same.
I just skimmed it but as I stated above it leaves a lot to be desired on details. Such as how do you remove or trim the brass? Sketch description to me. Other's might get it. I don't. What size is the plug? Not enough details for me. I'm thick I guess.
This is the stuff that that HLE Books sells, but directly from the manufacturer without the markup.
I have ordered many things here fine and they always arrive with no issue.
Since it is coming from France you will have to source your own black powder percussion caps, but you can get those anywhere. The hardest thing for me was actually finding small round toothpicks that fit in the case to hold everything down.
Here is what everything broke down to shipping it here:
That is about $20 each with plenty of extra pins and wads for loading many times. The benefit of these is that they can be cleaned and reloaded relatively easily.
Another option is buying original period 16g NPE shotshells. I have loaded many myself and sold hundreds to others and the vast majority go off fine even though they are over 100 years old.
Here is what those metallic ones look like loaded:
And here is what they look like after being shot (along with some original period ones I shot in another gun):
Aaron I can get good wads and overshot cards here cheap. That site makes it a whole lot less painful. Thanks for the heads up. I appreciate it. If my all plastic hulls don't work out I'll most likely buy 6 cases from there.
Mike, sorry I've been off air for a few days. I was lucky enough to pick up some brass cases which make for easy loading. I don't use the tooth pick method but just seat an over shot wad and use either a glue gun of waterglass (sodium silicate) as an adhesive. The case heads, if using standard fired cases, can be swaged down using a tapered brass tube and knocking them through otherwise with compression formed cases like Winchester AA's is to just peel of the brass head. If you get really, really stuck I can send you one of my inserts to use as a pattern. Beauty with those is that they can be used in any bore case. Lagopus....
Lagopus I'd appreciate one of your inserts. that's the piece I believe I'd have the most trouble fabricating. I've sourced 70 active all plastic hulls to try and 50 brass magtech.
Mike, P.M. me your address and I'll send one along. If I call it a 'valve', which I suppose it is, it should go through customs o.k. I don't know about the Activ cases as the ones I have have steel rim bases. The Magtech won't work as they are too thin at the vital part of the base; I tried that thinking it a way to go. Most success comes from passing fired cases through a swage or getting hold of compression formed type cases and peeling the metal heads off. I'll wait to hear from you. Lagopus…..
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