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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,533 Likes: 91
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,533 Likes: 91 |
B. Graham, The way I learned is to turn the reamers in the headstock, center the barrel being reamed with a solid center in the tailstock and push it onto the reamer with the tailstock, while "dogging" it to prevent turning with a handvise( vise grips will work) clamped to the locking lugs, riding on the carriage. By doing it this way, before cutting the barrels off, you preserve the convergence of the barrels. If the barrels have been cut already( or if you made an actual monobloc), you will need to set it up at the correct angles in a mill with an angle plate and bored with a boring bar. Others may very well do it a different way. Mike The idea of doing that scares the hell out of me !
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,000 Likes: 402
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,000 Likes: 402 |
Similar to how I was taught in gunsmithing school to chamber a rifle. A chamber reamer with a dog centered on the tailstock and live center and the barrel spinning in a steady rest, hold the dog in your hand. I do not chamber rifles that way any longer!
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,502 Likes: 212
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,502 Likes: 212 |
Gunman, SKB, Turning at 22-28RPM is not scary at all. This is why I kept my Atlas lathe when I got the Clausing. The slowest the Clausing will turn is 54 RPM. Most of the modern lathes turn 70-90RPM in The gunsmith sizes(12-14"). I chamber between a center and steady rest pushing the reamer with a solid center and the tailstock spindle extended pretty far. I dog the reamer with either a box end wrench or tap handle held in my hand so that if it hangs up it will simply straighten my fingers out and release the reamer. Both the box end and tap wrench will clear the bed and turn with the barrel harmlessly. With the right size pilot, the reamer will follow the bore this way. I didn't go to gunsmith school, I learned this from an old gunsmith( except I figured out myself to use a "flag" on the tailstock spindle and a dial indicator when I get close. Mike
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,533 Likes: 91
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,533 Likes: 91 |
Its not the speed its the way you are suggesting .I have seen numerous methods of reaming out back ends including the one you suggest .I have only seen two I would use . All I can say is good luck .
P S. I have sleeved a lot of guns so I do have some idea as to what I am saying .
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,000 Likes: 402
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,000 Likes: 402 |
Gunman, How do you go about it?
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,502 Likes: 212
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,502 Likes: 212 |
Gunman, Thanks, I have already had good luck. I know there are different ways of doing things. Do what works best for you, using the equipment you have. Change only if you think some other way will be better for you. As for myself, I am about at the end of doing substantial work. I was watching "Life Below Zero" where one of the people caught a spawned out "ghost" Salmon. It reminded me of me. Mike
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 973 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 973 Likes: 23 |
I'm going with the route of boring the monobloc on a mill. The tubes have been cut to 3", and the bloc has been faced.
The school has boring equipment of course, but I was wondering, for this use case, what do people like to use for boring this length of tube vertically?
Also, what is best approach to hold the block securely, considering the taper of the remaining tubes, and keeping the boring straight.
Tubes were found at Holt's: 28 1/8" unchambered Westley Richards tubes.
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 98 Likes: 8
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 98 Likes: 8 |
First, use the largest diameter boring tool you can fit in the hole for absolute rigidity as to avoid chatter. Make sure the tool is centered correctly. Indicate the face of the monobloc to be certain it is square and parallel. Of course use a tool which is long enough to bore the hole in one pass all the way through. use gage pins if you have them to measure the hole diameter as you progress.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,533 Likes: 91
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,533 Likes: 91 |
Gunman, How do you go about it? I dont any more I retired and the tooling was sold off . Basicaly the barels were cut off at 3&1/2" inches a centered mandrel was put in the chamber and held between centers , the back ends then clamped in a in a jig mounted on the cross slide by the lumps . The boring was done from the front/muzzel end with reamer drills and then finished to size with boring tool driven in the head stock . It was then faced off to length with a large diameter end mill . This was a one station operation so that the facing off was true to the bores .This facing off was the key to good joints .
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 930 Likes: 259
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 930 Likes: 259 |
Gunman, How do you go about it? I dont any more I retired and the tooling was sold off . Basicaly the barels were cut off at 3&1/2" inches a centered mandrel was put in the chamber and held between centers , the back ends then clamped in a in a jig mounted on the cross slide by the lumps . The boring was done from the front/muzzel end with reamer drills and then finished to size with boring tool driven in the head stock . It was then faced off to length with a large diameter end mill . This was a one station operation so that the facing off was true to the bores .This facing off was the key to good joints . It scares me too. You lads should listen to what Gunman is teaching you, a variation of the classic "line boring" method using an accurate lathe you learn in engineering shop practices. More accurate than using a vertical mill. Also he is dead on in the facing method, I even went so far as to make my own milling cutter for this work in order to get seamless fit of barrels to monobloc. Cutting the proper facing of the monobloc is the reason masters like Kirk Merrington can sleeve shotguns seamlessly without tig welding. When you build a made for purpose jig to mount to the lathe cross slide do not use the compound, but remove it and mount the jig's adjustable base directly to the cross slide base center hole(where the compound fits). Make sure the cross slide has all excess play to the lathe ways adjusted out. I use a 2 inch hardened and ground machinist vice mounted to the cross slide (with adjustable base to the vice/cross slide interface) to hold the lumps of the monobloc securely. You will make the adjustable vice base of sufficient height to have the monobloc at center line of the headstock to tailstock when the monobloc is secured in the vice jaws. The ground and hardened vice jaws will keep from marring the surface of the monobloc lumps-but I use brass shim anyway. I am nearly 80 years old now and I suppose you all are lads to me. Also sold my lathe, vertical and horizontal mills and tooling last year. Bv
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