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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,130 Likes: 19
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,130 Likes: 19 |
So Ive done a few stock, but this one seems problematic, I cant seem to get right. The pores are filled and the finish was knocked down, but I cant figure out how to get the figure in the wood built up and end up with dull spots in the finish, Im using boiled linseed and Napiers London finish which is a linseed oil with dryers. I want a flat finish but the dull spots are driving me nuts. Any advice.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,561 Likes: 249
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,561 Likes: 249 |
It's only a guess, but it looks as if there's a large darkish patch. I think, if curly figure darkened or stained fairly uniformly, you may not have prepped the wood to the same leveled uniform grit as parts of the stock that you're satisfied with. I think the hot reflective light spot helps illustrate some prep uneveness that might feel different to the touch, maybe soft backed sanding or some reluctance to go after it? Again, only guessing, good luck with it.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,576 Likes: 85
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,576 Likes: 85 |
You could keep doing what your doing and in time it will slowly even out as the dull spots fill from the edge and get smaller Or you could put a few top coats to Timberlux on and be done in a few days.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88 |
Never been a big fan of boiled linseed for a gunstock finish...great for protecting axes, shovels and hoe heads and handles.
Kinda looks like part of the wood is still absorbing finish.
I'd try wet sanding you might start with 200 grit wet/dry then a couple of times with 400 grit wet/dry paper with your paper on a rubber sanding block...before the slurry starts to dry give 'one wipe with a tissue paper across the grain.
You need to be sure it's had time to fully cure between wet sandings...could mean over night in a warm room.
Heck what could eYe know I'm no rOcky mountain gunsmurf...
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88 |
Got to lOve that signature line of yours Mark...
Coming from a guy flagrantly trOlling for business in the same signature line.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,566 Likes: 233
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,566 Likes: 233 |
I think I agree with Craig, I just maybe have a different way of saying it. I see it as end grain of figured areas coming to the surface. I would guess most on this forum have more experience with this, than I, but I would work down the dry finish in the big middle areas with fine steel wool( maybe 00), but next to inletting and corners with fine abrasive paper( 400-600 grit), backed up with a rubber/wood/or hard felt block. Take the surface all the way to the wood. The reflective areas are where the grain is filled and there is finish on top of the wood. If you look closely at the dull areas, it looks like the grain is not quite filled( the end grain will take in more finish than side grain). You can concentrate on the dull areas by applying finish, take it down, do it again until all the dull areas are filled. Once this is done take the whole surface down to the wood completely. You will then have the finish in the wood, rather than on the wood. At this point, you can apply whatever finish you want and knock it back to suit yourself by what ever way you prefer. What I like to do for the final finish in to rub in one coat of "Boiled Linseed Oil". Then, when( not if)I get some rain spots or other small defect from use, I only have to rub it up with fine steel wool and rub in another coat of oil. There will be disagreement with my method, some likely very forceful, just remember I already admitted everyone else has more experience than I. Mike
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 352 Likes: 105
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 352 Likes: 105 |
Got to lOve that signature line of yours Mark...
Coming from a guy flagrantly trOlling for business in the same signature line.
Does he troll for business? I live in Wisconsin and asked him to be my gunsmith. He rejected me very rudely and told me to take a hike.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,090 Likes: 463
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,090 Likes: 463 |
Does he troll for business?
I do not believe Mark does work for others. I have known him nearly 20 years and have never heard a rude word out of his mouth. I do not accept all clients or types or work either and I am getting more picky by the day. Could be a sign I am getting old.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88 |
Got to lOve that signature line of yours Mark...
Coming from a guy flagrantly trOlling for business in the same signature line.
Does he troll for business? I live in Wisconsin and asked him to be my gunsmith. He rejected me very rudely and told me to take a hike. He trolls for gun sales...
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,996 Likes: 493
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,996 Likes: 493 |
What do you troll for Frank?
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan) =>/
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