doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Rust Bluing Question

I recently blued a barrel set, using Pilkington's, followed directions using a humidity closet and so forth. Polished down to 320 maybe 400. 6 cycles came out perfect except one small area about 3/8" x 1" that was much DARKER than the rest of the barrels. So I tried to polish out that area and redo it with Pilkingtons. It was obvious after 2-3 cycles it wasn't going to work. So I stripped the whole barrel set down and started over, polishing every where evenly with 320/400 paper. Six cycles again; this time that same area that had the dark spot and the area area around it that got the extra polishing on the first go didn't take the blue like the rest of the barrels. This time that area is LIGHTER and sort of mottled. Could this be cranky bunch of steel? Everything else I did on this bluing--two other barrrel sets and a receiver from a Mod 37 Ithaca came out perfectly. thanks!

I don't know exactly what your problem is, but I would keep on going. I have had issues that disappeared eventually. 8-10 cycles is my norm. I won't guarentee that it will work but it has for me. I would also polish to at least 600 grit.

Brent

I have had the smae problem with Pilkington's. Have no idea why it happens soemtimes. Pilkington's gives me the prettiest color to my eye, but has provem to be pretty sensitive to steel type with my application techniques. I "blue" rifles and "black shotguns, using Gungoddess and Laurel Mountain Forge, respectively. Cured the ills you are currently experiencing.

I think you need to keep going with it. I also think 600 grit is over kill, 400 is good enough and I stop at 320.

Gil:
Pilkjington's is fussy, as these guys pointed out. It's also the most beautiful, I think, when it comes out right. I've run into a situation where the liquid sometimes just beads up on the steel,not coating it properly. Letting it dry and putting another thin application sometimes works, but I've also had to start over with a couple of jobs. I've tried the Gun Goddess, and it's much easier to apply and never had a problem. Not casting aspersions on Pilkington's, just an observation.
400 is a good place to stop, IMO.
Craig Libhart

I agree with battle 320 is more than good,
I also like to use a red color scotch-guard soak in acetone to make it nice and smooth, and most imported keep it clean
You do not have to start from scratch. You can blend the area that giving you the problem and clean it good,than keep on bluing.
Casey

Would you agree that, now that I have oiled the barrels (hoping that might make the splotchy area disappear), that I really do need to start over, stripping the barrels back to bare metal?Also, I could not find "Gun Goddess" in Brownell's catalog. Where would that be available? Thank you all for the response!

I never polish beyond 320. Rust bluing isn’t like hot bluing, it needs a little more to hold on to. I’ve seen very good results with guns polished with 150 grit...220 is a good happy medium and I promise that when you’re done, it will look right. The finish polishing gets done during the carding process. When in doubt, go one grit size larger, rather than smaller…I promise, you’ll like the results. I’m a fan of Laurel Mountain Forge.

Kevin: I agree with your assessment on grit; I have learned that going to too fine a grit does cause problems with some bluing techniques. Where do you get Laurel Mtn. Forge? Many thanks.

Gil:
Gun Goddess is the name for the solution from Half Moon Rifle Shop (406) 892-4409 I order it directly form Jim, not sure if it's available elsewhere.
Craig