doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Ideal Trigger Pull Weights

All the opinions posted so far have been of value. However, perhaps I should have titled this thread "Tuning a Trigger" and avoided mentioning a pull weight at all...a safe trigger was never the question.

Every U.S. dealer/manufacturer (including Galazan) tends to make a heavy trigger pull S.O.P. because their attorney's believe it reduces their liability. I've seen CSMC Model 21's with an 8 to 10 pound trigger which the owner promptly sent back to be corrected.

But if everyone agrees that fine tuning a trigger to eliminate or at least reduce slack, drag and over travel (when appropriate) are prerequisites for a "good" trigger (regardless of pull weight at break), why do you think a company as respected as Briley would refuse to work on a Ruger Gold Label trigger while accepting an SKB on the same work order.

Is there a specialist out there who will work on the Ruger other than the Ruger factory which will probably just say their triggers are fine at their factory spec.? Not trying to make a "silk purse out of a sow's ear", just trying to get a cleaner trigger.

The only trigger I've ever felt the need to tune (other than my Perazzi by Giacomo) was a Browning 425 by Dale Tate and he did a superb job of eliminating slack and drag to make a nice crisp trigger pull. And since Browning shooters are notorious for "trapping the trigger" between shots,the problem of a sloppy trigger on the Ruger and the SKB might considered to be almost identical issues. So what's different about the Ruger trigger that keeps Briley from working on it?

I won't even go into the fact that after spending time and money to ship this gun to Briley because they agreed to accept the job, that more money will be invested to get it back with no work done ...and not even an apology on their part to soften the disappointment or expense...but that's just another sad story about customer service that can wait for another time.

Excellent comments, Jonty.

Re: trigger gauges.

I now have an electronic pull gauge that cost $50-60. It works fine, and as Jonty says, there's error in every tool and technique, so you need to average a bunch of measurements. To me, the biggest plus to the gauge is it's portablity; it fits in my tool chest and I can carry it to the club easily. But it is certainly no more accurate nor precise than a dead-weight pull that Jonty describes.

If you have a good scale that measures in the range you need (for years I used a $10 postal scale)a dead-pull is the way to go. I use an empty coffee can with 2 holes punched near the top. I attach a string to one hole, thread it through the trigger guard and attach it back to the can, which sits on the floor. I add a couple pounds of lead ingots, then dribble in some cast bullets. Holding the gun by the barrel, straight up, perpendicular to the floor, I slowly and steadily pull up until the can clears the floor and/or the trigger breaks. Then you can weigh the can to the 1/10 ounce if you desire. A little experimenting will teach you the gun is often not perpendiculat to the floor. That is, the correct direction of pull is not necessarily parallel to the axis of the bore, but often angled up toward the heel of the butt.

This may seem a little primitive, but it's actually more precise than gauges. Not that you need that precision for shotguns, but I can measure varmint rifles to fractions of an ounce.

Sharpsrifle;

I don't have an answer for you. I'm only responding again because I was posting as you were, and didn't want you to think I was ignoring your wish to redirect the discussion. Seems like you missed the best opportunity to get the straight scoop from the gunsmith himself. I doubt anyone answering the phone at Briley will be able to help.

As to finding a 'smith to work on the Ruger trigger...this is probably the best place to ask and I hope someone can answer. Good luck.

Fish scales can be slightly irratic, but I've found them to be good enough when using one that has the range limit near the pull desired. Some of the new load cell type electronic fish scales have no spring and essentially no movement. They should eliminate any irratic readings due to friction within the scale.

Personally, I adapt quickly to a trigger that is good or bad on a shotgun. I don't seem to be as sensitive to bad characteristics as some, although I do like a good pull.

"Take up" is something that seems to bother a lot of people. This is the low spring pressure before the trigger comes in contact with the sear. On some mechanisms take up is necessary to make the trigger safely work. This seems easy to adapt to also, unless the pull weight is very light.

But I can't stand a poor/heavy rifle or handgun trigger.

3.5 ~4 #'s first 'pull' 4.5~5 #'s second 'pull' for a shot gun, second bbl pull one pound heavier, w/minmal slack/takeup for either, but neither of them need be rifle crisp with zero slack or take-up.

Just my own opinion. I am not THAT aware in the field if the trigger[s] should be a bit heavier or looser, but a too light a trigger is immediately a real problem, be it targets or field work. Here one is better to err a bit heavy rather than light.