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Forums10
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Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 288 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 288 Likes: 7 |
[quote=sxsman1]I have used the Gualandi wads with terrible results.
I'm curious about the problem that you encountered with the SG16 wad, because I have found it to be excellent in straight walled hulls. Claybuster 16 gauge wads have the smallest diameter skirt, which leads to powder migration and bloopers, in cartridges carried around in the field. It's hard to find a straight willow on the Prairie, when you have a stuck wad, a long way from the vehicle.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 526 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 526 Likes: 3 |
I have tried the Gualandi wads, with the same problem I have been writing about, they don't fill the hull and I can't get a decent crimp with them. What load are you using? I would like to use them because I have a very large supply . I don't have trouble with powder migration with the WAA 7/8 clones. Pete
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Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 288 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 288 Likes: 7 |
There's SG16 and a short SG16s. I don't use the "short". Filling the hull is all about density of powder once you have a wad with the tallest cushion section. SG-16 has the tallest crush section - and the powder cup is filled with little bumps that take up more space. For example - 24 grains of SR4756, SG-16, and 1 ounce #8 shot is a perfect fit in Cheddite hulls.
Last edited by Saskbooknut; 11/13/21 05:04 PM. Reason: Completion
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,554 Likes: 184
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,554 Likes: 184 |
sxsman1
If you wish a better crimp, use your current load and add a "Cheerio or a Cocoa Puff" above the wad and either under or over the shot.
Bio-degradable and unseen when shot.
If you will try this, please report back on your results
This method works GREAT for me.
Mike
Last edited by skeettx; 11/13/21 05:16 PM.
USAF RET 1971-95
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,464 Likes: 133
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,464 Likes: 133 |
There are lots of published loads that are simply bad recipes. Many couple undersized wads with large capacity hulls. For example the Remington and old Winchester compression formed hulls work best with wads with a smaller diameter (Remington, Winchester/Claybuster). The larger capacity hulls like Federal, Cheddite/Herter's, Fiocchi, and non-compression formed Winchesters (which are Cheddite hulls) work best with larger diameter wads like the Gualandi/SG16, Z16 (B&P), and Cheddite wads. When Cabela's first started selling the Herters (Cheddite) shells at very reasonable prices (real bargains when they were on sale!), I initially tried the Claybuster wads. As suggested here, they didn't work for 7/8 oz loads. The DR-16's work really well. Got my hands on a bunch of the black Rem Game Load hulls. The 7/8 oz Claybusters work very well in those. And as far as 16ga 7/8 oz wads go, the Claybusters are about the easiest ones to find, and the least expensive. I looked through old loading data using the Win WAA 1 oz wad in the Rem hulls. The Claybuster is essentially a clone of the Win 1 oz wad, with that little bump in the bottom of the cup to reduce space for lighter loads so no filler is required. Works like a charm. If only those Rems didn't have such brittle case mouths . . .
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,017 Likes: 70
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,017 Likes: 70 |
Larry, those black Remington hulls do get crispy, but for recreational targets as long as they hold the shot in place I'm good. They get ugly, but I've gotten 5 to 10 loadings on many of them. A split or two is no problem. I just shake my head when I hear of someone tossing them after one case-mouth split. I've got large tub of the green Remingtons 16 gauge hulls I'm going to start on this winter.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,295 Likes: 564
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,295 Likes: 564 |
No filler is needed. You’re putting the wad too far down into the Hull. When you seat the wad & shot, only push it pass the wad guide fingers on the press. You’ll hear an audible click when you pass the fingers. It’ll crimp perfectly after that. If you hold the finished shell up to the light, you’ll see that the base of the wad is seated just on your powder charge. When you crimp the shell, the crimp will seat the wad/shot in the perfect position. There is no need for a lot of wad pressure in these loadings. I’ve been doing this for years with fantastic results. Most of my 16 bore loads are 7/8 Oz too. 1 Oz will crimp even better.
I do this for the two types of wads I use for the 16. The SG16 (2.5” loads) and the DR (in 2 3/4” hulls).
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 696 Likes: 61
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 696 Likes: 61 |
I've abandoned loading 16ga 2 3/4 and just load 2 1/2" now that way I never have to mate the proper length shell to the shotgun, they all shoot 2 1/2" fine. Cheddite hulls SG-16-s wads, 7/8oz 8s and Greendot.
Last edited by oskar; 11/14/21 12:06 PM.
After the first shot the rest are just noise.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,017 Likes: 70
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,017 Likes: 70 |
I've abandoned loading 16ga 2 3/4 and just load 2 1/2" now that way I never have to mate the proper length shell to the shotgun, they all shoot 2 1/2" fine. Cheddite hulls SG-16-s wads, 7/8oz 8s and Greendot. That's a really nice load, Oskar. I've got 1,000 or so short hulls that get the same components. My bread and butter 2 3/4" load is the Remington hull, Claybuster 0078-16 wad, 15 gr. Green Dot or Int. Clays, and a W209. Hopefully those W209's come back.
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 107 Likes: 18
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 107 Likes: 18 |
No Fillers. Cheddite hulls\Ched primers. No dishing. Green 15.5-17.2 Green Dot and DR-16 with 7/8 oz. Purple Herters (Cheddite) 16.5-17.2 Green Dot and SG-16 with 1 oz. No adjustments on the 9000 between the 2 I can live with the occasional swirl, it doesn't hurt anything. Will be loading 4-5K of the 1 oz. this winter.
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