Fred, I have never used Herter's French Red, and am highly unlikely to do so for the same reason Kutter mentioned. Most wood fillers contain particles of finely ground minerals such as silica that are abrasive and very hard on cutting or checkering tools. I use a sanded in finish when I want pores filled. And perfectly filled pores are not always appropriate when trying to duplicate an aged factory finish.

If you want a reddish tone, it is easier and better in my opinion to stain before doing any sanded in pore filling because the finish will act as a sealer that prevents penetration of the stain. I like using Behlen's Blood Red stain thinned for control. It is a spirit stain rather than a pigment stain, so not as likely to obscure grain and figure. Behlen's is no longer available, and I have not used the products from their successor company. I may use a wood conditioner to control penetration or blotchiness if the walnut is very porous, or already quite dark.

I do not like stains on the surface, or even the so-called varnish stains because it is sometimes difficult to avoid cutting through during sanding, and exposing lighter areas on sharp edges such as along cheek pieces. This is especially true with finishes such as varnish or oil modified urethanes that tend to build on the surface. The same thing may happen from scratches during use or normal wear, so I'd prefer to have stain that penetrates evenly into the wood below the surface, if I use one. Always best to experiment on a scrap piece of the same walnut if it is possible.


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