What do you want to know?
I think you covered the basics.
Miller wrote of pressing out pins, and then reaming the hole while the barrels were tightly fit for 100% bearing on the hook.
Others pointed out that was unnecessary.
For the forged in place pins I remember seeing a drawing showing which areas of the pin were working surfaces, and which not. Which illuminated how they could be machined. And why some pins could just be rotated to give new life.
I think working a new cross pin down until it is flush with the action (without scratching the action) is hard to do, and worth paying for.
Beer can shims and loctite sure work well for non collectible guns.
If you are bored, you can plastigauge each side and see the clearance differences.
Then we can argue for months over cleaning and lubrication, vs recoil for the differences. Lol.
Last edited by ClapperZapper; 04/23/24 01:49 PM.
