doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Husqvarna 310ASE barrel fitting.

If you want to skip the blathering, start at the bottom.

First I want to sing the praises of my shotgun. Everytime I pick it up to shoot it or just admire it, she becomes more and more one of those sxs's that I just can't imagine not having. I took a chance on a GB auction with poor pics but after studying the pictures, I saw enough detail to feel good about bidding. What I received was an almost like new if ever shot example of this fine shotgun manufactured some time in the late 40s. I got a great deal but honestly could have paid double and been pleased with what I received.

100% CCH on a drum tight frame, with under bites and greener cross bolt locking, 100% beautifully executed checkering on a straight grip stock, ejectors that will send shells 20 feet back and not a spec of rust or really anything I can find. The engraving is not overly done and just such a nice refinement. The frame sculpting is so clean, crisp and even to both sides. Other than putting a slip on buttpad for some extra LOP (6'-6") she fits great. I really get the sense that the builder woke up one day and thought this may be the last gun I ever build so I am going to give it all. 12 ga double triggers BTW.

Just a wonderful example of history and craftsmanship.

Ok enough blathering..... here is my situation.....

The chokes are IM and pretty tight FC. It crushes Clay's when I do my part. It is too tight for most of my hunting. I found a real nice set of barrels only a couple hundred numbers away on the serial. The barrels are extractor though. I am fine with extractors.

I have fit other barrels with success but not with a greener cross bolt. I want to get the second set fit and re-choked without any little thing being done to the original gun. I may even send off to Briley for choke tubes.

Who would be the hands down go to for fitting? I need it right the 1st time.

Many thanks

Personally, I would start with Gunter Pfrommer....

From a price standpoint most Husqvarna shotguns are not very expensive. I own one with almost 90% Case colors, beautiful blue, and a nice piece of wood. It was choked Full and Full. For a $100 bill I had my gunsmith open them up to IC and LM. Now I have a great clays gun and hunting gun. From a purest view I get not wanting to alter the gun's originality. With guns, I generally equate cost of work done versus return on investment. Would I bore out a $10,000 Purdey? Would I add a piece of wood to the comb of my Boss? Probably not. But maybe, if money was not object. There are many examples in our hobby where a beautiful double has been butchered (at least in our own opinion) and we exclaim, "I can't believe someone would do such a thing!" Well, we also do not know the reason behind it. Did the owner start having physical issues as to necessitate the gun be altered? Were the barrels shortened because they moved to a place where the terrain was so overgrown that a longer set of barrels just got in the way? Did they develop a handicap where the gun was too heavy and now they needed less weight so they could shoulder the gun? Many times a gun is altered out of necessity. Many of the classic guns we own were used to put food on the table. Sometimes there were altered for no other reason than to suit the owners particular taste and style. Sometimes they were altered because they could not afford another gun! Stove bolts were often used to replace broken screws. Barrel lugs were crudely welded to keep the gun in working condition. Stocks were cut when the gun changed hands to fit the new owner, etc., etc. Back then, the owners were not overly concerned about future value. Sometime we look at these relics with a distorted lens by applying our values to a gone by era that would not understand them. In your example I would have a competent gunsmith change the choking and I would not mess with a second set of barrels. In the end, it's your project if it floats your boat do it!

Husqvarna Model 310s were not inexpensive guns back in the day. From the 1929 A.F. Stoeger catalog --



I had the chokes opened on my 12-gauge to .010" and .020", .005" and .010" might have been even better. My post WW-II 16-gauge is still very tight and a Remington Express #5 in the left barrel accounted for the longest Pheasant in my memory.

I bet that 16ga is a pleasure to handle. A 20ga in that for me would be about as good as it gets.

Mine is the sister to you 12 ga.

Quite pricy back in the day it looks. One of the best values out there now in my opinion.

Thx

Travis i have a 16 gauge L and it weighs 6 lbs and is a superb gun in every way. Bobby

No doubt you enjoy it.

I am on the lookout for my 12ga's 16ga cousin.

One day.

OK I cant back down from a challenge and to 12boreman's point it was decided that sweat equity was better than real $ spent. So I went right at that replacement barrel to fit it up to my gun. So far so good. The barrel is about 85%,ish on face.

On my gun, the tit, nipple, extractor rod, lever actuator or whatever you call that thing sticking up at the knuckle end of the frame above the pivot pin is wider than the slot at the underside of the new barrel at the extractor rod end. I had to first widen the barrel slot up to even get a start with getting the barrels on. I also had to shorten the extractor rod end of the new barrel a bit so the aforementioned thingy can engage on the end of the extractor rod and not get hung up on the top of it. That worked good and the extractor seems to move with the opening and closing of the barrels as it should. After that the extractor was removed. The under bites seem to be coming on as it gets closer and closer to face but I have not yet made any adjustments to the barrel lugs other than a bit of side polishing to get the width fit in. The cross bolt is not engaging at all at this point.

OK we are at the 7th inning stretch. I have forced my self to back off, seriously think of next steps and then come back when I can be in the mind to be very deliberate and nuanced and out of the challenge (this barrel can't beat me ) mode. Yeah I have screwed some stuff up in the past when I have just powered through.

Any advise on generally what my next steps or areas of focus would be is greatly appreciated? I am not sure of how much contact the new barrel hook is making with the gun's pivot pin but I would think this is would be the next area of focus as any metal I take off the hook will move the barrels forward and closer to coming to face. I have never been real clear about how this gets accomplished. Again any advise is welcomed.

Lastly, if anyone would keep me in mind if they run across a 310 forearm (extractor), metal and/or metal/wood, I want to buy one for the new barrels and need one for final fitting. I looked at all the usual places and even called Simpsons. One will pop up but you may see one before I do.

Many thanks.

85 percent is very good. I'm glad you seem to be taking a break and evaluating your next move. Getting so many surfaces fit properly is tough and slow is the way to go. Sometimes you also need to say "good enough ". Don't chase that 100 % contact on face and take things too far. Please keep us posted on your progress and put up some photos.

I got a few Bakers years ago as just stocked actions. I eventually fit barrels and forearms to both of them so I know what you're going through.

Take the cross bolt out. fit as you normally would, then put the cross bolt back in and fit as needed. Per Dennis Potter