doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Sideplate removal?

Trying to remove the sideplate's on the Hussey but can't budge the two smaller screw's on either side of the plate's. Any advice? Merry Christmas

Take it to a professional before those screws become more buggered than they already are. I put the gun in a padded vise and use the quil of my mill to keep downward pressure on the bit which keeps it from walking out of the slot.

I am not a gunsmith & I do not play one on TV, but you are going to need a little tap, tap with a small mallet & correct, fitted turnscrew, possibly with a piece of leather with a small hole in it to protect the plate. Sears used to sell a hammer/screwdriver that when you hit it on top with a hammer, the screw-driver would turn. Anyway, you just need a little force to break the friction.


Serbus

Raimey
rse

Thanks, Would loosening the large rear screw first help?

That’s a damn fine looking shotgun and there’s nothing in there you can’t look up on the internet.

If your screwdriver slips, you’ll forever get to look at a big scratch across your lock plate and possibly even running off the lock plate and into the wood.

If you have questions about how to remove lock screws you likely need to consult a professional to do it for you.

I don't know your experience level but please make sure your screwdriver fits perfectly. Use lots of down pressure when turning and as pointed out some tapping may help. If you have a soldering copper (iron) heat it very hot and hold it to the screw head for about 30 seconds. The heat might help soften old dried up oil on the threads. Above all, be patient.

I agree on that scratch: when you get up it is there & when you go to bed it is there...... It never goes away.

Serbus,

Raimey
rse

eddie k
Loosening the rear screw might not help but it will not hurt, you should loosen it if you can. Put a drop of penetrating oil on the stubborn screw (s) and wait a week. Then if you don't have a drill press, find a friend that does. With the fitted screwdriver as described by Raimey (grind and file to fit with parallel sides, fit closely) and appropriate protective padding, capture the screwdriver between the chuck and screw to keep it from backing out of the slot, and turn the handle to loosen the screw. If it is stubborn, you may need to grip the screwdriver handle with a "'vise grip" or something similar to provide leverage. Be very cautious with the extra leverage, the blade can't come out of the slot, but too much force can twist it off. Once the "bond" is broken, the additional leverage and holding the screwdriver with the drill press should not be needed and the screw will need room to back out. If this suggestion doesn't work, you should ask someone that knows what he is doing. Good luck.
Mike

Yeah, if you are going to mount this effort on your own, I would clamp a piece of leather to the lockplate with a hole in it to accommodate the width of the appropriately filed turnscrew. Keep everything contained & restrained.

Serbus,

Raimey
rse

My advice, if it's not broke leave it alone