doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com Resoldering barrels

I have been given a nice old Scott doublegun that was going to be sent to the authorities for destruction, as the upper rib is almost unsoldered, and no one wanted it.

For me it is a great opportunity to work on it and try to salvage it. Of course I am not going to make soldering work on a perfectly working gun, so as this one is not working, it is a great candidate to punt my hands on jajaja


I have seen several videos in barrel re-soldering, but would like to know if any one has a good recommendation if a book/video/blog, where I can get as much technical information about flux used, solder, process, etc....

Also the stock is horrible, with several coats of lacquer, and almost all the checkering gone, so it would be a great project of restoration and see what level I can achieve as a DIY "gunsmith"

pacomb,
This work is beyond my abilities, but I am given to understand the best way to do it is with an oven, especially made for the purpose. The joints must be cleaned, flux and solder applied, then the ribs have to be wired and held to the barrels with soft iron wire, blocks/wedges and then heated to the flow point of the solder in the oven. The main part of the ribs are traditionally soft soldered on. There is usually a section over the lugs and chamber area that is silver soldered. The soft solder is usually 50/50 Tin/Lead, or some may have used 60/40. Rosin flux was traditionally used to avoid corrosion caused by being unable to clean acid flux from between the barrels and ribs. Soft Iron wire is used as "tie wire" for reinforcing rods in concrete construction and is available at building supply stores. My limited experience is only with very short sections of loose rib, but it enough to indicate that it would be difficult to get enough heat, evenly, on full length ribs with a handheld torch. If it is not necessary to resolder the entire length of rib, you should wire and block the whole thing to prevent other sections from coming loose. I hope this helps.

Thanks for your advice Der Ami

As far as I understand, the most important thing is tinning the barrels and ribs separately, using a strong flux, and then clean VERY well the flux rest so there is no corrosion in the future. Once all places together with the wire, apply the rosin flux, and parts should solder nicely as they have been previously tinned.

I am concerned with the "rosin flux", as I am not sure about what the correct translation into Spanish and I don't know if I will be able to find it locally.

I share interesting videos I have found on the subject:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSUOeT2dBg0&list=PLRhWJddSvPkTATsq1yUnXdfAKhqFXo3T0&ab_channel=Brownells%2CInc.