Finally I found only a 50/50 roll, not cheap, but many have said it is best than 70/30. I am still waiting it for arrive.
I have a bag of soring flux grit, here they call it colofonia o something similar. Now with the 50/50, I will also try to tin it with rosin flux as many of you say it can be done.
BIG QUESTION: I have to solder both ribs. When soldering both, are they soldered both at the same time?? first tin barrels and both ribs, place them, and then solder them all together?? or one at a time???
I dont have iron wire, or horse nails, but have 6 big metal clamps which I hope should work to place the ribs
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It seems no solder is inexpensive anymore. I buy any that I can find cheap at garage sales, flea markets, or auto parts swap meets. I often find nearly full rolls of various alloys for a dollar or two.
As I said earlier, "la colofonia" is a Spanish term for pine rosin flux.
It seems to me that "big metal clamps" might get in the way, and also act as a heat sink making it harder to reach a correct soldering temperature. Mild steel baling wire is common and fairly cheap. You could aways cut some small steel wedges to hold the ribs in position under the wire if you can't find suitable nails. "Cut nails" for concrete have a nice taper along the shank, if you can find them.
I have not done a complete rib soldering job on a shotgun, but I'd think it would be extremely difficult to solder both ribs at the same time. I have read of placing wet strips of cotton cloth under a completed rib to keep it cool enough when soldering the second rib that you don't melt the new solder joint. Wiring a length of copper or aluminum tubing to the first rib after soldering might also make a good heat sink to avoid overheating the new joint.
You can use a lead pencil to cover any area where you don't want solder to stick. The "lead" core is actually graphite, and solder won't stick to it. Naturally, you don't want any to be in an area where you need solder to flow and stick.
Thanks for sharing your project with us, and good luck.
