doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com ? about SKB 150

Maybe just take it to your gunsmith

As I said earlier, I would use a gun solvent myself but WD-40 would probably work as a cleaner. You can always use a brass brush if you need to. But to each his own. I am sure everyone likes the way they do it after years of cleaning a gun, right? Can't go wrong with doing it your own way.

If you only shoot when it’s warm, maybe.

If you want your guns to malfunction, just spray them up with WD-40 and go hunting when it’s cold.

WD-40 leaves a waxy sticky material that collects more shit, not less. And when it’s cold, good luck with your firing pins.

When I’m cleaning a shotgun barrel, there is usually a can of WD-40 on my bench. Right next to that is a proper bore solvent, Outers and Remington brands are there today. I toot some compressed air down the bore, which, removes some of the dry crud. Then, mostly because it has a tube to direct the spray, I hit the bore with WD-40, and run a patch or three down the bore. I spray the bore cleaner (both come in pump plastic bottles) down the barrel, brush with a bronze brush, and finish when the patches come clean. I never oil a bore. The guy who ran the French proof house in St. Etienne explained why I should never do that, and, I don’t.

Nobody ever told me to use WD-40 to initiate bore cleaning. I think I just started doing it because it was handy, moved the heavy crud, and allowed me to see the bore in a bit cleaner fashion when I got busy with actual bore solvent, and a bronze brush.

I will use a bit of WD-40 on a clean cloth to wipe fingerprints off of blued metal. It actually gets used for very little in my world, and a can runs most of a decade if the pressure doesn’t seep out of it over time. A few have done that to me.

If you are taking a stock off a double, hosing it with WD-40, and calling it cleaned and lubed, you need to up your game. It isn’t clean, or, lubed.

Best,
Ted

My daughter has this same problem with a 20 gauge Browning Superposed that she's been shooting for several years. That gun is about the same weight as your wife's Model 150 SKB.

She's 5' 8" and about 130 lbs. The 3/4 oz. loads I loaded for her almost never trip the inertia trigger. Even 7/8 oz. loads don't work all the time.

She's moving to a 28", 12 gauge Superposed this year; we'll see how that works. I also have a 2nd 28" 12 gauge Superposed on the way - this one a Fabrique Nationale Grade C1 - that was made in 1975 and should have the mechanical trigger instead of the inertia trigger. One or the other should help the problem, and longer barrels and extra pounds should smooth out her swing.

As to WD-40. When I had my gunshop in the late 70s I had a number of duck guns come in that weren't firing the second shot. The culprit was WD-40, hunters after a day of hunting would spray the stuff in the action or alongside the trigger and the stuff turned to a brown goo eventually thickening to where triggers didn't reset or fire. Mineral spirits cleaned them up for me then light sewing machine oil sparingly worked well.

I have a German commercial sewing machine that I converted to treadle. I left it at my mom's when I got divorced, my sister lubed it with WD-40 and kept using the stuff on it because it got harder and harder to use. After I brought it home it took years of cleaning to get that crap out of it.

I've been using WD-40 for years... but the only place I ever used it on my guns was for a quick spray and wipe of dirty or wet shotgun bores.

For cleaning an action or trigger assembly, there are much better products than WD-40. Same thing goes for lightly lubricating and protection afterward. There are plenty of good gun oils available, and the amount needed is so small that the cost per gun per year is negligible.

WD-40 absolutely will leave a waxy buildup that can make things sticky over time. It may have more of a tendency to do this than other lubes. But the fact is, any oil or grease will dry out or oxidize over time. They will all thicken and collect dust and dirt much easier than a perfectly clean surface too. The old dried out dirty stuff should be removed before just adding more. In sub-zero temperatures, even a small excess of lube will thicken and create the drag that can slow down a firing pin.

The military has for years used firearm maintenance products with the abbreviation CLP. They are all in one products that are used in the field to Clean-Lubricate-and Protect. They are a compromise. CLP products won't clean and dissolve old grunge and dried lube as well as something like Brake Cleaner, Carb and Choke Cleaner, or Shooter's Choice. But they also won't leave parts so clean and dry that they quickly flash rust either. It shouldn't take a lot of intelligence to know that these stronger solvents could damage a stock finish, which is why guns are stripped instead of indiscriminately spraying them on everything.

So the problem isn't so much with WD-40. The real problem is people who use it incorrectly, and in places where there are better products to use.

so update, the skb action is clean and lightly oiled. The same shells function fine in my Rizzini BR550, which is also a inertia trigger and the skb functions fine with factory shells. I am just going to go back up 1 die on my MEC press. My gunsmith says I could put a lighter spring in but it doesn't look easy to access and not worth the gunsmith $ in my view.

Don’t use CLP on anything related to a shotgun.
Or anything else you value

It is designed to creep. Lubricating the actions of military semi autos.
It will creep everywhere
Because that’s what it was designed to do. Protecting every nook and cranny inside of military semi auto firearms.

If you want oil everywhere (or whatever concoction CLP is ) put it on your shotgun.

In no time, it will coat the inside of all of your cases, all of your fancy Frenched display cases, and any place else that your gun rested even momentarily.

Barrel down in a beautiful walnut display case with red felt against the barrel ends? Bingo.

But down in a rifle storage locker, with a Sorbothane recoil pad? Bingo.

It creepily creeps into every creepy creepable creep like place.

Unless you’re hunting Ducks in Afghanistan, I wouldn’t recommend it.

You’ll have a whole lot better results just keeping a tub of pre-lubricated rem oil wipes in the cup pocket of your truck door.

Without all the creeping.