doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Linseed oil and minarelspirits

Gentleman
Again I would like to thank you for your help I will try the Pro-Custom Oil formula. It seems to be the most popular.
Pete

an equal parts mixture of turpenine (or mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, and spar varnish has worked for years for me.

Brent

I'd be very much surprised if the checkering on the Gold doesn't have some kind of finish in it already. If you feel better about adding something, I'm with the 50/50 Tru-oil and mineral spirits(paint thinner) crowd. I cut mine 50/50 for all finishing jobs. Be sure to use it sparingly and spread it evenly with a tooth brush. JL

Ken Hurst, I seem to recall you also had a super glue solution to solidifing checkering. Maybe you would comment again about that method.

I use almost exactly what Bob Vilmur uses which is the old "barracks soldiering" formula. Linseed may be permeable; it may rot the wood for all I know but I'm still using it. The only thing I changed in the last babyfood jar-full I made is to go a bit heavier on the turps to keep it a bit softer longer. I also add some red-brown shoe polish. Slight cleaning and polishing action but I stay off the checkering to avoid shiny points and off the tangs and latch escutcheons. I add a dab of Simichrome to the waxy rag for a bit of cleaning and polishing action and usually add a thin coat and let it set and cure for 24 and then buff it off. I recently got a Flues 4E which looked quite nice at a distance but closeup someone had used either an orbital sander or polishing buff to cut down the finish on the major faces of stock and left contamination scratches or whorls. I got these out by liberal rubbing with rottenstone and the thinned oil-wax mix on a cork-backed felt rubber. I was thru the finish in one major area and I had it back up to a nice sheen and matching color with two application and curing cycles which took about 48 hrs.

jack

I use almost exactly what Bob Vilmur uses which is the old "barracks soldiering" formula. Linseed may be permeable; it may rot the wood for all I know but I'm still using it. The only thing I changed in the last babyfood jar-full I made is to go a bit heavier on the turps to keep it a bit softer longer. I also add some red-brown shoe polish. Slight cleaning and polishing action but I stay off the checkering to avoid shiny points and off the tangs and latch escutcheons. I add a dab of Simichrome to the waxy rag for a bit of cleaning and polishing action and usually add a thin coat and let it set and cure for 24 and then buff it off. I recently got a Flues 4E which looked quite nice at a distance but closeup someone had used either an orbital sander or polishing buff to cut down the finish on the major faces of stock and left contamination scratches or whorls. I got these out by liberal rubbing with rottenstone and the thinned oil-wax mix on a cork-backed felt rubber. I was thru the finish in one major area and I had it back up to a nice sheen and matching color with two application and curing cycles which took about 48 hrs.

jack