doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com How is nitre bluing done.

Hola Claudio,

Could you post the instructions that you used as a prop in the photo of the blued parts (post 75991)? Thanks in advance.

JC

I use wood charcoal, bone would probably work fine also. The charcoal is re-usable as long as the container is sealed.

Here you go JC

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=6834.10;wap2

It's one of the articles I found while researching the many different methods that people have used to do charcoal bluing. I've never tried it myself

Thank you Alex, ....was just curious, I do basically the same thing but use bone charcoal instead

CJ

Thanks Claude,

Thought I'd post this I found about the original question:

"To Color Iron or Steel Blue (Niter Bath). Mix equal parts of sodium nitrate and potassium nitrate in a heavy iron steel pot. When the nitrates are thoroughly melted add a bit of manganese dioxide, about 1/3 ounce to each pound of nitrate.
Parts to be colored in this bath must be buffed to a mirror finish, cleaned scrupulously, covered with a film of light oil (dipping in an oil bath is the most satisfactory way of accomplishing this) and then lowered into the bath.
Immersion time for a dark blue color varies with the type of steel and its mass.
Since the working temperature of this type bath runs around 800-900F. soldered parts (lead or silver) or springs should not be put in it. Actually it should only be used for blueing pins, screws and similar small, nonoperating parts.
After the desired color has been achieved, the blued articles should be dunked in room temperature water, then in boiling water (to rinse away any adhering salt) and finally in oil."

From "PROFESSIONAL GUNSMITHING" By Walter J. Howe, Samworth Books, 1946

Trust some of you will try it out and show the results.

JC

That's basically the way I do it,....the tough part is getting the salt to reach temperature and staying there,...and if you can do that in a safe manner it is still pretty dangerous stuff,..the parts should go in "DRY" no oil and especially "NO WATER AROUND" as it can erupt and spit out just like molten lava if as much as a drop of water gets on it!......my quench water is 10' away and on the floor

"WORD OF CAUTION" if anyone is going to try this,...and I suspect someone will!,....you must wear a face shield and thick leather gloves, and clothing that wont burn, if it spits out and lands on you this stuff is way hotter than solder and will burn right through thin clothes on to your skin!

Please be careful,....

CJ