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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 34
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 34 |
I just received my new can of Renaissance wax and want to start the process of cleaning the oil coating off the barrels and auctions on my guns. I am thinking mineral spirits will be the best thing to use for this. Are there any better fluids to use for this? I didn't realise how hard my old can of Renaissance was getting until I got the new can. I have had the old can for over twenty years. For those who have not tried it,it is well worth the money. I use mine for our marble vanity top, my cocobola duck and goose calls, collector knifes, furniture and soon my guns. The list could go on and on, it puts a nice clear protective coat on things and does not look greasy or built up. Thanks
Last edited by baydog; 03/15/08 10:22 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,418 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,418 Likes: 2 |
I use mineral spirits...seems to work fine...the unscented variety is a little more user friendly...
gunut
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,723 Likes: 126
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,723 Likes: 126 |
Next step. After you degrease and wax the metal and wood, do you lightly oil the metal, or leave it dry under the wax? Maybe just lubricate the moving surfaces? I've never used wax on my guns, so this is a serious (even if dumb) question...Geo
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89 |
Renaissance wax might be fine on a gun that's to be put away...but doesn't hold up well with use.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,723 Likes: 126
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,723 Likes: 126 |
HOJO, that's what I suspected and the reason I've never used wax. All of my guns are regularly used, so I'll probably stick with oil on the metal and maybe wax the wood...Geo
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659 |
When storing mine for an extended length of time, I wipe them down with Ditzler's Wax and Grease Remover. After adequate drying time, I use either Butcher's Bowling alley wax, a turp based product that I have been using on furniture, hardwood floors, wood work, etc for years. After a dy period of about 3-5 minutes depending on humidity, I buff out with either a 100% cotton diaper or one of these new-fangled microfibre cloths.
I use products that I already have instead of spending money on speciality products. I also use 100% cotton, because certain synthetic fabrics can leave tiny scratches..... eventually "hazing" the surface.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,418 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,418 Likes: 2 |
I just used to use Johnson Paste Wax on my guns wood but I heard good things about Trewax and got a tin of it and it works much better than the Johnsons....Have never tried any of the others...I have put in on the metal a couple times but it just doesnt seem right....grease [RIG] or oil seems better for unpainted metal..
gunut
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983 |
My limited experience with Ren-Wax is the same as Homeless Joe's. I spent a fairly large amount of money to get a jar of it and have been highly underwhelmed with it's performance in using guns. I'm much more trusting of a good wipe-down, after each use, using a flannel cloth charged or re-charged with just about anything. Sheath, Klenzoil, Breakfree, etc. Ren-Wax is highly overpriced and under-effective, IMO.
> Jim Legg <
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
Ballistol will doitol but I don't waste it; Ed's Red as a crudcutter. Why does Sheath or whatever they call it now appear to creep around and show oily sheen in places and not in others. Show fingerprints also. Why would Renwax be superior to any wax containing carnauba?
jack
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89 |
Renwax doesn't show finger prints but it does not hold up as well as the Carnuba waxes in use.
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