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A few months ago I inherited a 12 gauge CVA muzzleloader that I would like to try and hunt with. One thing I would like to do is keep my accessories period correct if possible. I have a small copper flask with a couple of different tubes that meter the appropriate amount of powder for cap and ball revolvers and I have a powder horn made from a cow horn. I don't think either of those is correct. Were powder and shot carried in bags and was a possibles bag used? Does this gun accurately replicate one from a particular period or is in somewhat generic in styling. Lastly, is there a substitute propellant that is cleaner and less corrosive than black? I know they have advanced some in the thirty years since this gun was made. In the owner's manual it specifies that only ffg black should be used but at that time there was no pyrodex or other substitutes available. I believe the intent was that smokeless can't be used. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

Skip

I'd stick with FF Black powder. A shot snake is the best way to carry your shot if you intend to do much shooting.

http://www.octobercountry.com/products3.php?productid=355

They used to list a bag with a built in shot snake.

I'd get my wads from Craig at Circle Fly.

http://www.circlefly.com/

I do quite a lot of Muzzleloader shooting and Homeless joe is right.Use Black only and 2 F with about 2 3/4 dr or 80 grains is a nice moderate load that will kill birds and break targets.
Always wash the bbls out with soapy water,dry and oil after each use. If wads arent available use my 5 and two technique. 5 squares of Toilet paper over the powder and two over the shot.Works just as well except the paper in the air.

Skip,

The questions that you are asking indicate an interest in period correct muzzleloader hunting beyond simply knocking a bird down with a frontloader. Like turkey hunting, it is horribly addicting, and it is definately expensive! Perhaps you should forget about it right now before you become "infected" (Big Grin). However, if you would like I'll be glad to email photos of period correct fowling pieces and associated accouterments, provide websites and resource material sources, and you can go at it! I would suggest your Snipe Hunting Website if there is a way to contact you there.(I have yet to figure out how to post photos on this website!)

The gun is a generic type shotgun, but reasonable to the late percussion era. Blackpowder will work well, but because it is a percussion there is no reason you can't use Pyrodex, Triple 7 or any one of the other currently blackpowder substitutes. These powders have the advantages of being more readily obtainable than black because black is classified as an explosive and requires additional licensing which few local stores have. As far as corrosiveness, black is actually less corrosive than pyrodex and most of the substitutes. Shot was carried in a shot snake and probably just about any other container useable in the field. Powder was carried in horns and in various copper flasks somewhat dependent on the resources of the user. I use premeasured charges in individual ready containers. Typical loading method is use the same volume scoop for your powder as would contain your shot weight. In a 12ga start with an ounce of shot and the same volume of FFg will give you approx 72 grains of powder. FFg is usually recommended by manufacturers because it produces slightly less pressures. However among the competitive muzzleloading shotgunners FFFg is probably more frequently used and your gun will not be endangered by FFFg in same volume of powder for volume of shot loadings. Other items you need will be some overpowder Nitro card wads, a cushion wad usually helps and an overshot wad to keep your shot in place.

There are quite a few safety and loading techniques you need to know so don't just blunder afield. Contact your local National Muzzleloading Rifle Association field rep and find out where you can get the instruction needed. You will have a much greater probability of success with much less probability of injury. These firearms lack most of the safety features you associate with modern firearms so your real safety is dependent upon proper knowledge of the issues. Too lengthy to discuss fully here.

Jerry V's reply is excellent, and you can go to the bank with what he has said! Just my opinion!

Skip,

The CVA is nice starter gun. I have one. It can have some issues. On mine at least the left spring which is held in place by some pins can come loose under recoil. Leaving you with only 1 barrel. This is not true of all, but points to less than stellar quality control.

I would not consider it specific of any one style. It is more generic. A good place to pick up supplies, parts and see original guns is Track of the Wolf, http://www.trackofthewolf.com

You can pick up a main spring vise very cheaply:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(m2bjmfi...rtNum=TOOL-VISE

For wads and cards I use Circle Fly. http://www.circlefly.com/ He posts here. Give him a call with any questions, he has a lot of knowledge.

For hunting, follow Jerry's excellent advice of using pre-loaded charges. You can spend a lot of money on something as simple as a powder horn. Take a look at the one Mike Petrov posted a picture of recently.

This site is devoted to black powder shells, but he has a lot of good information http://www.tbullock.com/bpsg.html

Lyman produced a good book a while back on black powder, again mostly cartridges, but still worth a look as they did some pressure testing.

Hodgdon has tech support available if you have questions about pyrodex. They have been very helpful when I called.

Keep safety first. Having said that, you can have a lot of fun with your CVA.

Pete

Snipe,
Some good advise given here. You may also want to consider the english style shot & powder flasks that Track of the Wolf carries. Both are adjustable to the load that you may want to shoot and are for shotgun.

If you have a local supply of black powder, I would recommend it.
I find that it is generally less expensive than the substitutes.
When you go to purchase wads, I would recommend using one size larger overshot in a double gun. It will help keep the second charge from moving during the recoil from the first barrel.
If you need help, by all means give me a call and we'll get you started out on the right foot.

Craig
http://www.circlefly.com

I appreciate all of the advise and opinions. I am not really new to muzzleloaders and have owned a few rifles and revolvers for the last thirty years. I no longer hunt deer but I have kept one .45 rifle in case I decide down the road that I might like to again. In the past couple of weeks two percussion rifles and two cap and ball revolvers have been sold, leaving me only with the shotgun and one rifle. When my father passed away a few months ago I decided I was either going to use or sell his shotgun. I know it won't be as productive as what I am now shooting but it will be interesting, or frustrating.

For shot and powder measuring I have both a one ounce ladle (as marked) and a brass cylindrical one that adjusts from 1-1 1/4 ounces. I also have plenty of hard filler wads and overshot cards. I don't know that I even care to shoot that large of a charge. Is there a minimum that is safe or recommended? My ideal would be to shoot 7/8 ounce charges. What about using a one piece plastic wad? I don't see any mention of choking in the manual and was wondering if there was any. I am a walk-up shooter and don't hunt over a dog. Because of that many of my shot are long and difficult with a breechloader. Having to cock hammers will only make me slower and the shot distance longer. I thought a plastic wad would help tighten patterns as much as possible. I know that flies in the face of the traditional aspect I am looking for but I also need to be concerned about efficiency. If I could get away with just an overpowder wad I would do that but I'd like to have the option of the modern wad if patterns are poor.

Woodsrunner, I would be interested in seeing what period correct accessories look like. Please email me at skip@thesnipehunter.com.

Skip

A plastic wad would give you a tighter pattern, but the problem is, you ought to have some type of lube on a cushion wad when shooting BP to help keep the fouling soft. Does about the same thing as lubing a patched round ball.
If you don't, the fouling will bake on hard in the bore, making loading difficult and act as an abrasive on the plastic everytime you shoot.
Makes it hard to clean as well.

Hope this helps.