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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 18
elric Offline OP
Boxlock
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Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 18
Folks, it is written that perfect knowledge casteth out fear... Sorry, I've not found an SKB factory manual for the Model 100

The inertial trigger has quite a few parts. Number of related springs...

SKB Model 100 Action Parts is my crib notes. SKBshotguns has a decent amount of action parts as does Numrich.

UPDATE: My, my. Looks like the SKB Model 500 used the same trigger, but also used a Trigger Adjusting Screw and a Trigger Adjusting Nut. I do NOT suggest that everyone runs out and retrofits SKB SxS triggers. I've never noticed an issue with the non-adjustable trigger.

Last edited by elric; 09/14/26 11:12 AM.
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 18
elric Offline OP
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Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 18
Tomorrow is opening day of Wisconsin Woodcock season. I decided to disassemble my Model 100 and check the plunger in the connector block.

Took off the butt plate [#2 Phillips], took off the stock bolt nut with a 10mm socket. Removed the screw in the trigger guard, screwed out the trigger guard. Then I erred greatly. Without enough thought, I pulled the stock off the bolt and launched the lock washer to another dimension. The washer fell at my feet. Thankfully, 6mm lock washers are not rare. Ace Hardware for the win. I will order another real SKB lock washer... blush

Pro tip, after taking the stock bolt nut off, hold your hand over the bolt hole in the stock BEFORE you tug the stock off the stock bolt.

UPDATE: A simpler way to prevent flying parts - remove stock bolt nut. Thread nut back on bolt about four threads. Now you have both hands free... Once stock is free from back of action, unthread nut and slowly pull stock off bolt. If the action is down, both washers will remain inside the bore hole.

The factory used grease between the washer, the lock washer, and the nut... Grease looks common, no space-age formulation. My SWAG, it was to prevent oxidation between the two washers and the stock nut. Note that they DID apply grease to the stock bolt threads as well. Not a slobbering amount, though.

Flicked the connector block a few times, the plunger spring seems strong. Brushed off the sides of the trigger where it passes through the trigger plate. Blew out a bit of duff down near the pivot pin for the Automatic Safety Lever.

Both sear tips look sharp where they rest on the connector block, no burrs. While working the trigger, I saw some oily duff below the rear of the trigger where it rests on the trigger plate. Cleaned it out with a Q-Tip. That MIGHT have been the reason for doubling. The duff kept the trigger from resting on the trigger plate.

UPDATE: Re-assembly of the Model 100 was simple. I screwed in the trigger guard, pushed the action down until it snugly mated with the wood, then started the trigger guard wood screw at the rear of the guard [this holds the frame on the stock]. Then I looked at the stock bolt down inside the bored hole in the stock. wink Then it became clear... The purpose of the grease is to hold the washers in place on top of the stock nut as you carefully guide the socket up into the bore hole. Hold the stock and action so the stock points [fairly] upright. Run the washers/nut up into the bore hole and carefully tighten it snug, not ham-handed... Now snug down the trigger guard rear screw. FWIW, a normal 10mm socket fits neatly in the bore hole and the stack of greased washers starts nicely. Easier than it first appeared...

We shall see. I used a Brownell's MAGNA-tip set, and I tried to carefully remove the trigger plate screw... The screws for the trigger plate and the floor plate did not budge, and the interior of the action was pretty clean, so I left those screws alone.[/s][s]

Last edited by elric; 09/20/26 08:00 AM.

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