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I have always collected Model 21s. And I have seen small cracks or chips in the wood around the metal. But I don't ever remember seeing where a Model 21 was broken or cracked at the wrist from shooting. But I guess side locks have their advantages too. Thanks, Lloyd.

Boxlocks aren't known for this type of problem. They aren't as artistically wrought (and there is an argument that sidelocks have better trigger pulls) but boxlocks clearly aren't as prone to problems either.

So, it appears to me that sidelocks are going to be more of a problem with cracking and/or breaking at the wrist because there is less wood in that area. I don't ever remember boxlocks having that much of a problem. I don't ever remember hearing or seeing Winchester Model 21s, Fox, Merkel or any other boxlocks with a cracking problem. Is that a correct assumption?

Actually that's kind of incorrect,they did use a large threaded pin,but it's purpose was hold the replaceable roll joint ,when you weigh out all the methods of rejoining an action,popping out that roll joint and replacing it with a fractionally oversized factory made joint ,it's a damn good idea, the same with the wedge replacement they used on later guns...like parker or not ,all break actions will shoot loose,some are harder to put right than others

Salut Ted



Celle-ci en 32 mm a son record de 46 canards en une seule cartouche en 1946.

Here you go.

Keith, galaxy67, shot this nice South Georgia bird with his Clabrough and Bros 8 ga. The gun was made in the 1870s, has 38" barrels, F&F, and weighs almost 15 lbs. He shoots 3 1/4" shells made by Milton Starr, 2 1/4 oz. of #6. Three mature birds attacked his decoy and he shot the bird at 25 yards.

I think you would find it pretty boring after the first 30 minutes .
Graham

Remington Society of America website forum. Ask in early shotguns subforum.

Do you have a picture of the case opened?

Weighed it tonight it weighed 6lbs 1 oz.

Thanks for your excellent investigative gunsmithing Dustin. To give credit where it is due, on the disassembly questions the person who responded to a post on passionlachasse.fr was FAB500.
https://www.passionlachasse.com/t40494-damon-petrik-superposes-demonter-larme

This is a historic line and surely will be consulted by others, who might acquire this French relatively unknown over here but classic and beautiful superposed shotgun in our country.

Thank you to Gene for helping with this thread and for recently helping to gather some very helpful information on taking this gun down to the bits. He was kind enough to put a post up on a board in France that got the required info on taking these guns down. Much appreciated.

Dustin


PS- if anyone owns a Petrik and would like information and methodology on taking it down, send me a pm. More than happy to share.

If anyone is curious as to what the insides of a Petrik look like…here you go. I just finished a complete tear down for a long over due strip & clean on this 20 bore magnum Damon-Petrik.
I’ve found that the action and mechanics are simple, well thought out, and very robust. One thing that stood out was the precision of all the parts. On my Mitutoyo micrometer, all of the pins measured exactly the same with literally zero deviation. You don’t find that type of precision very often, even on some of the most expensive guns out there. All of the parts including the triggers are fitted very nicely. The striker block is so precisely fitted it’s unreal. Very nice work. The striker block is a novel idea too! There are some tooling marks on some of the parts, but still not bad…the parts that needed to be finely polished (bearing surfaces, etc) are.
A neat little feature on the trigger plate is an inspection hole that is machined so that a gunsmith can look at the sear-tumbler engagement to assess whether it’s dirty, damaged, or requiring lube, etc. without fully disassembling the trigger plate. Neat stuff.

The guts:


Nicely machined action….








Inspection port for sear/tumbler engagement


Nicely put together:

He is right next to my chair. He had a good day.

You can ask any price you want. Making a sale is an entirely different issue

I will sell you CCI BR2s at $300/1000, but not a penny less. Any takers? Did not think so.

Unfortunately the not cocking is the most common complaint.

Hello,
I’m looking for the lower two tang screws on a Remington 1889 SxS 12ga.
I’ve tried Numrich & Classic Firearms and Parts. Any other leads would be much appreciated.

Sincerely,
Steven

You done good. Nice long barreled hammergun.

Dairy birds…we call ‘em barn ducks.

Good looking gun.

Best,
Ted

Thank you for the information Doc. Im Looking forward to shooting it on some dairy birds soon. The case with the reloading items, the leather box, and cleaning rod was a real plus.
Chokes are open, and the bores measure very close to .626 and the chambers are 2 1/2”.
I will need to weight the barrels.

Thanks all, I now have a much better Idea on how to deal with my latest project!

Chief

The lettre annale is a 'g' for 1928
Cornell Pubs has an A&F 1929 catalog but it may not have been an A&F gun. The ones I've seen had the chamber length indicated in inches.
This one has FOR ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. on the R barrel
https://www.rockislandauction.com/detail/48/1616/cased-dumoulin-box-lock-model-double-barrel-shotgun
https://cornellpubs.com/product/874/

The tubes are fluid steel by Laurent Lochet-Habran and are Smokeless Powder proved, which was mandatory after 1924
Chambers 65 mm = 2 1/2"
At the time of proof the barrels weighed 1.369 Kg = or 3.02 #. If > 3% less now (from honing) they would be considered out of proof
The bore of 15.9 mm = .626" is odd; 20g was usually 15.6 mm = .615". The 9 may have actually been stamped upside down.
Muzzle dimensions were not marked after 1924

More

It would be interesting to know exactly what that oil finish actually is, and then find something that would be compatible to use as a sealer and filler for the large pores. As damascus notes, common shellac might do it, but I wonder if using enough to fill the pores would shrink over time. Of course, a shellac topcoat could easily be removed with alcohol.

I have often thought about spraying two part Automotive Urethane Clear Coat as a gun stock finish. I need to prep an old stock to have ready to shoot with a couple coats of clear the next time I am painting a vehicle using base/clear. Carefully masking off any checkering with painters tape would be important. I think a few coats would easily fill most pores, and it would be easy to wet sand and polish to a nice smooth surface without cutting through... assuming it was compatible with the substrate. Of course, you would probably be stuck with the low VOC Clear Coat in Kalifornia, and I don't hear rave reviews about it.

Maybe find a Body Shop in Arizona that would hose it down with the good stuff...