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Forums10
Topics37,770
Posts535,101
Members14,309
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Most Online661 Sep 20th, 2023
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Re: Milling a rim Cutout on an O/U ejector
Der Ami
09/27/23 04:46 PM
Gil, I have done a couple rim recesses with piloted counterbores. Turn a new pilot to fit the chamber and grind a slightly larger counterbore t the diameter of the rim recess. If you don't have a toolpost grinder, you can "rig" a hand grinder in the milling attachment to make one. I find that 4 or 5 small cutoff discs(trued) stacked on the handpiece makes a satisfactory grinding wheel. I turn the work backward and the grinder forward, but friends disagree with that. Cover the bed and dovetail surfaces well. Use a piece of sheet metal to block the sparks from catching the cover afire. I always turned the counterbore by hand to prevent catastrophic mistakes, but I can understand setting the barrel/extractor between centers in the lathe with the counterbore in the headstock and a plug with center in the appropriate barrel muzzle. I would still loosen the belts and turn the chuck by hand, rather than under power. Mike
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Re: 2023 / 410 Championship UK
Parabola
09/27/23 12:15 PM
Johnny at TGS did well to get that very nice AyA No. 4 .410 at just under £1,000.
I have looked at Guntrader UK where a new one is on offer at £8,222 (more than a pair of second hand No. 2 .410 AyA sidelocks), and a similar second hand one at £3,495.
There is one at the next Holts estimated at £700 to £900 (I.e. up to £1,200 with the buyer’s premium).
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Re: Boyd& Tyler 16ga help
Joe Wood
09/26/23 10:18 PM
That is a really interesting Rube Goldberg contraption. Would love to have it in hand and play with it awhile. Points of firing pins appear flat and original. Some early primer variation?
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Re: Drew Hause
eightbore
09/26/23 09:19 PM
Drew could also have mentioned that the PGCA forum requires real names for conversations between members on the forum. Sadly, the Fox Collectors forum does not require such identification. Even as a life member of the Fox organization, I have no idea who I am corresponding with.
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Re: Identify a Stock from the Inletting.....
Hugh Lomas
09/26/23 08:52 PM
Pretty Much all, Mk1,2 &3 Matadors left the factory with an auto safety. It operates from a straight wire rod operating from the under bolt through to the front of the trigger block blade. As soon as it gave problems with auto engaging with the first shot (Quite common) it was easily removed by withdrawing through the stock. Dimensions were @ .060" dia x 1" long. next time you have one in check for a small hole drilled from the rectangular bolt recess to the trigger blade.
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2023 Vintage Gunners Trophies are heading to USPS
Joe in Charlotte
09/26/23 12:26 AM
Hello all,
I have found addresses for everyone who did not collect their trophy at the Vintage Gunners Cup. It was hot. I can't blame anyone for heading for a/c.
Some folks left before the scores were posted.
Rest assured, your trophies will be with USPS in the morning.
All Best,
Joe Norcom Treasurer
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Re: E.M. Reilly; History; Chronology; Serial Numbers
Argo44
09/25/23 01:31 AM
Thanks to Stephen Howell for calling this to my attention: There is a single barrel Reilly advertised on Holts - a .297/.250 side-lever rook rifle. https://www.holtsauctioneers.com/as...+++713+&refno=++204441&saletype=Holts says in the advertisement that the SN is "2943." Holts' own photos, however, shows a Reilly SN 35394 on the gun. It has "E.M. Reilly & Co., 295, Oxford Street, London" on the barrel; the chart originally dated this SN to early 1903: ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/qL5sQ9V.png) But there is a problem. Holts' already has published a Reilly SxS shotgun allegedly with SN 35394, a 12 bore without mention of an address on the rib and with very minimal photos, which was postulated to be the last gun built in Feb 1903 at 277 Oxford Street. https://www.holtsauctioneers.com/as...++5608+&refno=++149905&saletype=![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/5HsT9X2.png) Obviously there can't be two 35394's. So it's best to believe the eyes and put the rook rifle into this slot and not the SxS which only relies on Holts' advertising accuracy. This is going to require a slight redo of the chart again around the time of the changeover from 277 to 295 Oxford Street, Feb 1903 - May 1904. -- 35394 (the rook rifle) now moves to May 1904. -- 35386 (address on barrel not mentioned), a .410 top lever SxS, is now assumed to be the last extant Reilly gun made at 277 Oxford Street Feb 1903. It is owned by "Roger Hill" and was mentioned in one post but no other references. Reilly "3"'s and "5"'s are very similar and have often been confused. So, the 12 bore, Side lock, non extractor SxS advertised by Holts as "35394," has been moved to the 35594 slot (with a question mark). (Holts has mis-advertised Reilly's before). Holts started off referencing this site's work. About 4 years ago I wrote to them about a couple of misidentifications. They have since gone their own way on dating Reilly's and refuse to use the work at all, alone amongst the other auction houses, or even to answer any queries. The gun industry is filled up with egos and opinions and these can get personal and dogmatic in a hurry and evidence be damned.
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Re: J. Woodward & Sons Book
JohnfromUK
09/24/23 01:15 PM
It was someone at Merlin Unwin who told me (on the phone last week when I ordered and paid by card) that it would be despatched towards the end of September. Maybe they are awaiting a further delivery?
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Re: Heat bluing
PhysDoc
09/23/23 03:20 PM
I mainly use potassium nitrate salts for spring tempering or to blue small parts like screws. I never tried it on larger items such as steel grip caps or trigger guards because I have read that it isn't a very durable bluing process for parts subject to wear. I'm curious to hear if anyone has personal experience to share on durability. I am intrigued by the higher temp charcoal process such as that used by Colt or the Carbonia process used by Smith & Wesson. Obviously, those processes were beautiful and held up well. We had a good discussion about this a few years ago: https://doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=574458&page=1Hi Keith Sorry for the delay in replying, I've been playing around with both methods over the summer and discovered this, that if I take a soft wire wheel used for carding, that the wheel will remove the heat blued finish but not the charcoal blued one. In fact the charcoal blued finish looks better after carding. Fred
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