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Does it, on being pressed down by the barrel flats on closing, either assist the Jones underlever rotate back to lock the gun, or release it so that it can do so?

Well, like Obama used to say - "Don't boo, vote."

Like I mentioned in a previous comment, too many hunters and firearms owners don't even bother to vote. They stay at home because they don't like the candidate and think their .30-30 and/or duck hunting gun is safe.

The left only cares about the so-called "assault rifles," right?

Does anybody have any Quality Cartridge 400 Whelen headstamped brass laying around they are willing to part with. Would like to get 40 or 60 pieces if I can scrounge them up.

Thanks,
Bryndon

Here are some additional details of my Rodda 8-Bore Double rifle ....

http://www.buckstix.com/buckpics/8-BORE-DETAILS-000.jpg

…as are the beaver tails on Will Primos’ 5 gun set of Purdey hammer doubles. IMO

Results:

Filtering with lab filter paper leads to essentially no residual powder in the oil, but takes a very long time, even using the higher micron paper.

Unsurprisingly, the oil with the higher concentration of alkanet powder and longer soak time had a much darker red oil.

Here is the new oil and the slow brew high test oil filtering side by side.




I also had a little real turpentine with alkanet steeping and I decided to filter that through the paper as well. The color is very dark and the filtration was much easier.

thanks guys I'll give tony a call

Larry is also top notch. He did work for me with leather pads, recut checkering, et al. Like all good stockers, he, too, is busy. Best to get on someone’s que as soon as possible.

Now, if you’re handy and have patience, both of which I lack, Cottage Craft Industries out of Texas cuts blanks for refitting. Look at their web site.

Good luck.

https://www.westleyrichards.com/theexplora/save-the-leon-mignon-school-of-gunmaking/

Important skills for the gunmaking trade are taught here. Graduates get jobs in the trade when they graduate. I hope these skills do not get lost with time.

Thanks for the link, it was a good read and explains a lot as to why it wasn't accepted.

pacomb,
This work is beyond my abilities, but I am given to understand the best way to do it is with an oven, especially made for the purpose. The joints must be cleaned, flux and solder applied, then the ribs have to be wired and held to the barrels with soft iron wire, blocks/wedges and then heated to the flow point of the solder in the oven. The main part of the ribs are traditionally soft soldered on. There is usually a section over the lugs and chamber area that is silver soldered. The soft solder is usually 50/50 Tin/Lead, or some may have used 60/40. Rosin flux was traditionally used to avoid corrosion caused by being unable to clean acid flux from between the barrels and ribs. Soft Iron wire is used as "tie wire" for reinforcing rods in concrete construction and is available at building supply stores. My limited experience is only with very short sections of loose rib, but it enough to indicate that it would be difficult to get enough heat, evenly, on full length ribs with a handheld torch. If it is not necessary to resolder the entire length of rib, you should wire and block the whole thing to prevent other sections from coming loose. I hope this helps.

William,
You can make cases from .357 Maximum, but they will be about 40 thousandths short, or you can make them from 5.6x50R cases trimmed to the proper length. The rim thickness might have to be adjusted. Looks like a fun rifle.
Mike

very nice work!! you always have to try new things, that is the way to learn. Engraving?? veeeery difficult to master, but certainly some basic things can be done.

I was also thinking in giving a try at some very basic engraving and have found a local shop with tools for engraver in jewelry, so I will but 2-3 hardened pencils (I dont know the correct name in English).

If I could make some basic flowers in screws for example, I would be mooooore than happy

My copy came this weekend and it was worth the wait. I was pretty skeptical for a while there, but the Cote's came through with style.

A questions was asked about the action of 10456. It appears to have a rising stud on the water table. (I don't know what that is for; if someone can explain - much appreciated). Holts responded in 24 hours - a record and very admirable:



The gun was unsold. They raised the estimated minimum from £150 to £400. It'll probably be reauctioned and at some point go into the silent bid group.

I shouldn't do this, but...



can't help myself. This was in the Fall 2023.

Look on the Crossed Halberds stamp for a date code (reflecting the year of its 1st trip through proof). It should be there.

"Eds Red"

I'm not a fan of Continental styling, but I can only look at your photos and marvel. Tremendous work.

Tim

I struck out on the internet. What I'm looking for is #13DC, that is for a Savage 340/342. All I need is the base, I have a set of rings.

Tim

Shoot! Might be useful--sorry. '98 Mauser in .400 Whelen. 25" barrel with a barrel band swivel.

Be prepared. (If that's possible) It's only going to get worse.

My MS 1903 arrived from England yesterday. Case isn't original but fits, I'll look for a proper Westley label for it. Shot and regulated by Westley Richards on top of barrel, cordite 30 1/2-156 on side.

Raimey,
The box is marked 5.6x57R, Is the rifle 5.6x61R vom Hofe or 5.6x57R? Are you looking for a 5.6 x 57 or 5.6x 61 vom Hofe bolt gun? I think I have some fired 5.6x57 cases, if you need them and maybe some 5.6x57R also. I can stake you to some 5.6x57 ammo to check your handloads against. The biggest advantage goes to the 5.6x57 over the 5.6x61 vom Hofe (both rimmed and rimless) because it uses .224" bullets and a common case head diameter. BTW, I noticed two of the fired cases have the unique venturi shoulder. This is more common on the 7x66 vom Hofe, than the 5.6 x61.
Mike

Mt Al,
I likely have to anneal more often than you will. I rifle is an 1871 sporter and the barrel has .452" grooves, so I expand the neck of the fired case and seat a .452 bullet with the crimping and first lube groove seated outside the neck (all grooves filled with lube). Then I size the neck in a 444 Marlin sizing die, until it will chamber. My rifle will not shoot with .446" bullets but does well with the .452". I would like to size them .454" (.002" over groove diameter) but they won't clear the seating die. All that extra expanding and sizing means I have to anneal after 3 firings, but you may not need to do it that often. Whatever you choose, if you find a crack at the case mouth, anneal right away and reduce the number of firings. I use kapok instead of Dacron, but only because I found a kapok filled life preserver many years ago in a flea market.
Mike

Glad to see that you and yours had such a great day. Thanks for sharing. 👍