|
|
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
5 members (HistoricBore, DaveB, SKB, 2 invisible),
1,089
guests, and
6
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,469
Posts545,147
Members14,409
| |
Most Online1,335
Apr 27th, 2024
|
|
If a specific post was interesting or useful to you, we recommend that you Like that post. It tells the post author, and others, that you found the information valuable. Clicking Like is another way to let others know that you enjoy it without leaving a comment.
Log in to join the conversation and Like this content.
|
|
|
|
mc (Nov 23rd 2022) |
|
Total Likes: 1 |
|
 Re: RELAYING RIBS
#622452
Nov 22nd a 03:06 PM
|
| by SKB |
| SKB |
I use 50-50 solder and rosin flux to both tin and join the ribs. The key is not getting it too hot, once you burn rosin flux you have to polish back to brite steel. I use a medium sized iron combined with an acetylene(not oxy acet) plumbers torch. The torch heats the base metal just enough that the iron will keep things wet on the base metal. It takes some practice to get it down but it is not hard. On the ribs themselves I use just the iron, no torch.
|
|
|
|
|
|