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Mar 29th, 2024
Thread Like Summary
bushveld, LeFusil, Stanton Hillis
Total Likes: 5
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#617627 08/04/2022 3:46 AM
by JNW
JNW
Who is fabulous at raising dents in barrels? I have a subtle dent in a sxs barrel I would like removed.
Liked Replies
#618075 Aug 14th a 02:19 AM
by bushveld
bushveld
Originally Posted by LeFusil
For blacking I rarely go past 6 cycles, maybe 8. Rust times are 1 hour at 90°and 60% humidity. Damascus barrels take a little bit more time. I normally hand card, but gave a carding wheel a try this last time and it worked pretty well (I can’t tell a difference in the finish vs. my usual hand carding). It cut the carding time down significantly, (5 to 10 minutes of hand carding vs. like a minute or two with the wheel and I’m done.)
Like Steve….I rarely ever see or get to the point of orange or red rust….in fact most of time the rust is a grayish green color, sometimes you can’t even see that….but after about 6 minutes in the boiling tank, they start turning jet black. I boil for a full 10 minutes to ensure full conversion.

I have seen LeFusil's barrel blacking and barrel browning work----- he is getting excellent results; and he is well on his way to in the future being able to duplicate the best London barrel blacking.
2 members like this
#617961 Aug 11th a 12:19 PM
by SKB
SKB
Hi Bill,
Try Pilkington's solution for rust blue, it works very well. You are correct, shorter cycles lead to a higher luster blue. You can try skipping the rusting cabinet as well. I finds this really helps when going for a high luster blue.

I make my own browning solutions out of Angier's and I find many of his solutions to be too strong for my liking. I end up reducing them by at least 50%, often much more as I get closer to finishing up.

I do not chemically remove bluing myself but hand polish everything.

All my best,
Steve
1 member likes this
#618077 Aug 14th a 02:28 AM
by LeFusil
LeFusil
Originally Posted by bushveld
Originally Posted by LeFusil
For blacking I rarely go past 6 cycles, maybe 8. Rust times are 1 hour at 90°and 60% humidity. Damascus barrels take a little bit more time. I normally hand card, but gave a carding wheel a try this last time and it worked pretty well (I can’t tell a difference in the finish vs. my usual hand carding). It cut the carding time down significantly, (5 to 10 minutes of hand carding vs. like a minute or two with the wheel and I’m done.)
Like Steve….I rarely ever see or get to the point of orange or red rust….in fact most of time the rust is a grayish green color, sometimes you can’t even see that….but after about 6 minutes in the boiling tank, they start turning jet black. I boil for a full 10 minutes to ensure full conversion.

I have seen LeFusil's barrel blacking and barrel browning work----- he is getting excellent results; and he is well on his way to in the future being able to duplicate the best London barrel blacking.


Goodness! High praise indeed! Thank you Stephen, as you know, I couldn’t have gotten to this point without your fantastic help, encouragement and time. Thanks again!!
1 member likes this
#618097 Aug 14th a 09:40 PM
by Kutter
Kutter
I don't let a heavy orange or red covering of rust appear on the bbls or parts before boiling.
It's not necessary.
It will of course produce a rust blue.
But for a layer or cycle to produce color after boiling, it's not necessary for that heavy accumulation.

I don't let the parts rust very long and like Lefusil states you can barely see the rust sometimes and they are ready for the boiling water.
The place where I hang bbls and parts is kind of dark, so I generally judge them as being ready (or not) by very gently dragging my finger tips down the surface.
If I can feel the drag of a coating formed,,they are ready. Feels about like a new piece of 800grit paper you are touching.

I know that goes against all the 'Don't ever touch the parts' advise. But I've been able to do that w/o any problem.
Dry hands,,what ever. I don't do any other handling of the parts during the process w/o wooden attachments or metal hangers.
Just that one very gentle touch to check if they are ready.

I think a lot of people assume the heavy rusting coat is necessary for rust bluing. Maybe that comes from seeing it used to do rust browning on Muzzle Loader bbls and parts.
They usually let them rust up pretty good. Seems like More is Gooder in that area.
If you want the matted look that's OK too. Sometimes it fits the piece being redone.
But it's not a necessity for a layer of color.

Express Rust Bluing , each swabbed on coating of soln produces an extremely thin layer of instant Rust. That in turn produces Blueing color just fine with every boiling cycle.
Why would there be a need for heavy rusting when doing Cold Rust Blue.
1 member likes this

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