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If the first lock is still cocked but the firing pin is stuck protruding from the breech face, theres a good chance the pin is broken and the parts are jammed into place.
The bushings crack often as well but can hold together till you start to unscrew them, then they fall apart .
Recock the locks using the cocking arms up front. The cocking arm(s) will not moveable if the lock is fired. The arm will flop up and down freely if the lock on that side is cocked.
A small crescent used to simply lever each arm individually back to cock the lock as Keith says works great.
I usually use a screwdriver blade to leverage each one using the other as a pivot point. Whatever works.
Bushed pins must come out the breach face. Take time to make a close fitting spanner. Keep track of which side each bushing, lock screw an FP goes in.
Later style pins can be removed by just taking the locks off.
The FP on each side just sits in a hole in the frame you can access from the inside of the lock recess,
The wood inletting up tight around that area will sometimes hold the pin from falling free from the frame , others will do just that when the gun is tipped muzzle up.
No set screw or sparate pin holding the FP in place. The installed lock does that
These pins are often mushroomed on the backend from hammer strikes. That can make them jam forward in their channel. They are also prone to breaking.
With a pipe cleaner and carefull manipulation you can clean out the FP hole in the frame from the back.
Taking the stock off of the frame is not necessary
Check the locks while you have them off of the gun and make sure they are in good condition. The sear engagement on these is cut rather rough whan assembled but they don't fall out of
engagement on their own or from rough handling that way.
Gun parts wear however and it can be a problem. Check for a loose bridle, the screws simply not tight. Make sure the two screws are in their correct positions. One will have it's screw head filed on slightly,,that one goes into the forward position on the bridle. The file marks are assembler adjustments for how deep the lock sits on the gun,,that screw head abutts the frame when assembled.
Some won't show any marks as the particular lock didn't need any adjustments in fitting depth.
Make sure there is a bit of trigger slack or take -up on the triggers before they engage the sear arms when the locks are cocked.
This ensures that the locks can be cocked fully and that the sear arms are not being pushed on by the trigger (blades) prematurely which can reverse the full engagement of sear to hammer and lead to a light trigger pull.
You don't need a lot of slack,,just some to see and feel that the triggers are off of the sear arms when the locks are cocked.
I wouldn't suggest removing the stock unless there are deffinate problems like this to fix.
The trigger plate has that Mack Truck of a top lever spring that will snap over as soon as the plate is pulled free of the frame.
For many, getting that assembly back together is where their gunsmithing adventures ends.
Don't be tempted to modify parts to be able to compress and hold that top lever spring so assembly is possible.
It's simply not needed.
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