Thanks to all who responded to my recent question about shooting gloves. You guys gave me some great ideas to follow up. Another question, if I'm not wearing out my welcome.

I want to add 3/8 or 1/2 inch to the length of pull on my Bernardelli Gamecock by installing one of those spacers between the buttstock and plastic buttplate. They're sold pretty cheap at Midway and elsewhere. I'm talking about the polymer spacers that you sand or machine to fit.

I'm reasonably handy, and have access to tools (though not specific gunsmith tools). We're not talking about a real high-grade fowling piece here, though I sure don't want to mess up my Bernardelli.

Is installing one of these spacers a job I should tackle myself, or is it strictly a gunsmith type thing?

Pete

First off, the plastic buttplate will not fit properly after installing a spacer. It will be too small. This would be the perfect time to install a decent recoil pad, instead of the spacer, too small plastic plate, etc. It is a do-it-yourself job for me, although I have a belt sander and a pad installing jig. After installing maybe a hundred or more pads, I'm getting the hang of it.

I'm with Jim on this. I've installed two pads and both came out very nice - just take your time. I use a 1 1/2" dia. by 1 1/2" long sanding drum on my electric drill clamped in a vise. (I had originally attempted to use a belt sander but had a difficult time seeing my work because of the angle and position required in clamping the machine in a vise, consequently scouring up the wood a bit too much. I would post a picture of the pad I just installed on my wife's Parker Repro but it is out at the engraver's having her initials scratched into the oval.

I use a piece of scrap plastic from the local window glass replacement shop. It is cheap/free and a great way to practice your grinding and fitting. You can upgrade to a nice Kickease after you find out where you are going and have gained some skill in grinding .
bill

The must do is to tape off the stock right up to the butts edge with yellow masking tape,a couple thicknesses at least,to protect it from any kind of gouging.I spray a tiny amount of wd40 and rub it around the wood before applying the tape.This serves to keep the tape from pulling up any finish when you lastly remove it.
I do use a dremel rotary tool with sanding drum to grind down
pads and spacers real close to the tape,watching heel and toe angles as you go,then use 100 grit paper wrapped on a flat metal block,or fine file to just touch the tape,then switch over to 400 grit paper with a dab of wd40 to finish it off.The dremel sanding drum will like to dig into the rubber,but if you are steady and smooth with your passes it will cut it.It will also spew rubber grit evrywhere,so cover up-wear safety glasses etc.
Freezing the pad is supposed to be the trick,but I was always too impatient.
Cutting the butt to length I would use a fine mitre saw freehand, try my best to keep it straight and from both sides,over the tape to keep the wood from splintering out.
Use the sanding block to get the butt flat and square again,sometimes I would have to relieve the center of the buttface between the mounting screws in order to get it really flat when you check with a straight edge.

Instead of a freehand mitre saw to cut length I use a table saw with a jointer blade for an ultra-fine cut. I use a spacer under the head of the stock to be sure of the 90 degree angle and adjust the angle of the T-slide for the angle of pitch. Again, proceed very slowly but always firmly.