Quick question. when cutting checkering into an existing finished stock,(especially some of the new "engineered" finishes). I have been told that by rubbing in a small amount of tru oil by way of a toothbrush is the best way to seal the new checkering. Question is, will it match the stock finish and look professional, or will it look like someone just dabbed some goop in the checkering that dosen't match the rest of the gun?
IM,
You know these "what finish is best" questions have an unlimited number of answers. Here's one: Tru-oil cut with mineral spirits about 60/40. Just a dab and toothbrush that checkering like crazy. Let it dry for a couple days and decide whether to do another coat. I like checkering to be a tad less glossy than the stock - once after getting checkering to be an exact match I found it to be too glossy and used acetone to knock it back.
Cut Trueoil and apply with a tooth brush. Thining it will get better penetration with less pooling in the checkering. Do not use too much or the gloss will also be fill in the checkering. You will have a gummy mess then.
Why not use the material that the stock was finished with, thinned of course, to seal the checkering?
it's a factory job. Don't know if they would part with any.
Problem that I have seen is that checkering cut through the finish appears to be lighter in color than the finished stock (stain probably cut away?). I bought some Tru-Oil today and put some on a scrap piece of wood. It didn't change the color much. I am looking at doing a custom gun project and I want the checkering to match the color of the rest of the stock and not stand out. How do the Pros do it?
Some of the less expensive guns like a 700 BDL Rem just leave the checkering bare. It stands out as much lighter.
I've used Dem-Barts checkering oil on some and it darkens a bit.
If you're going to do a custom job, you may not even decide to stain. If that's the case, just thin some finish. If you stain the stock, stain the checkering. But it will get darker than the rest of the stock with the same staining technique, since endgrain is exposed.
If you want really dark checkering, have CSM laser burn it.
Let me start by saying that I'm not the biggest fan of Truoil in the world. It's just to thick to use as it comes in the jar. Make life easy for yourself and go to your local Lowes or Menards and buy the smallest container Formbys modified tung oil finish you can buy and use it straight. Apply it with a small artist brush, brush it out with a toothbrush, wipe off the excess with a papertowel and you're done. Two or three coats should be more than enough to seal the checkering.
Doug
I find that the firt thing to do is brush in a little stain as was used in finishing the stock. If it is a factory finish, I'll bet it still needs some stain.
I then use minwax wipe on poly. Apply a thin coat with a toothbrush. If need be, apply a second thin coat.
PS I am a big fan of Minwax wipe on poly. I use it to cut the truoil. I figure the poly gives the truoil a true waterproof finish. I have had great luck with this combo for finishing stocks. I am just a beginer though....
Jerry
My local expert advised to go over the checkering first, with a stiff brush, to clean it up, then used the diluted TruOil. Also, while you're at it, remove all furniture and make sure there's no exposed wood underneath. Go to Gander Mt. and remove the forend from a new 525 Sporting, ....you'll find untreated wood.
If you want to know how dark the checkering is going to look with a clear finish on it, hit it with mineral spirits. They will make it close to the color with finish and will evaporate in a few minutes. Then you'll know whether you need stain or not. By the way I despise stain, it's a last resort. Way last.
Jeff
I think "despise" should be reserved for mustard greens.
you yankee's don't know how to cook greens!
