How about some tips on checkering? Tools used, method of use, drawing patterns on guns? The different density? I saw one on here you could see the wood grain through, really beautiful. Thanks

Dembart tools..all of them. Start with 16 - 20 LPI. Any finer and you will go blind. Practice practice practice. Don't bite off a big job to start. Go slow, don't do it tired, do it in sessions. Good book: Checkering and carving of Gunstocks by Monty Kennedy. Lots of tips, plenty of good patterns. Got mine on Ebay for $20.00. These are just my small contributions as a beginner myself. There are Guild memebers on this board that can offer a wealth of information and advice.

This is all a personal preference, I use Gunline tools-bought a set from Brownells along with extra cutters, you can never have enough tools and there are quite a few extras above a beginners set. I did use 90 degree at one time but now am prone to 60 degree to get the flat top variety of checkering. If you want to see the grain through the checkering 60 deg. flat top is a good bet/very fine 90 deg. I would say 18 or 20 lines per. inch is plenty fine for a beginner, when I say fine it's in the 28 to 32 lpi. range. Your diamonds should be twice as long as they are wide and the starting lines laid out with a flexible straight edge. All my tools are set to cut on the pull stroke which helps to counter over-runs on the border. I have also cut absolutely flat checkering in 16 lpi with a very fine hobbyist's hacksaw and the effect of having checkering and not hide the grain at all but the stock looks done. A stock to me that isn't checkered looks unfinished, the above gives both worlds. Feel free to contact me by Email. --- John Can.

I'm one of those guys that prefer the Brownell "full view" handles and I use either Gunline or Brownell checkering tips. I really don't believe that the brand of tool makes much difference its how you use it. Where have you heard that before!

I also have a Doiron electric checkering machine but it's not what most guys will be using so I don't think its worth discussing other than its a BEAST and has a learning curve.

IMHO, the most important item that you can have is a checkering cradle to hold your work in. I've made my own for probably less than $10. I know a lot of people say that they use sand bags etc to hold their work - well God bless'em. I'm going to post a picture of some checkering with fleurs and ribbons in it that, IMHO, needed both of my hands free to work and have a really solid base to hold the stock.


To layout a pattern, I use a china marker and draw the pattern right on the wood. If it needs some changes i just wipe off the mark and redraw. I've made my own diamond layouts in both 3:1 and 3 1/2:1 ratio. You'll also find that a small viener chisel (Dembart makes them) is invaluable in laying out your pattern and cutting diamonds close to your border.

What did I forget?

Doug

I bow my head when they mention your name.

Doug,
Not that I intend to do my own checkering but I would like to see the device you use to hold the guns when you do your work. Best, Jake

I almost forgot:

1. I use Optivisors because I just don't see as well as I did when I was 25.
2. The master lines are THE most important lines in the pattern. If they aren't straight I'll guarantee the rest of your lines will not get any better.
3. This is a hard concept for me to put into words, but you almost have to see where you want to end up with your line and sort of reach for it at the end. This will help you avoid pinching the ends of you lines. I told you I wasn't going to be able to explain this!

Doug

Jake, this is a really poor photo of the cradle but its the best I have tonight.
Hey look what else I found

Doug

I admire your fancy wood scratching and never get tired of seeing your fine work.

You are very correct when you mention that the Doiron electric checkering machine has a long learning curve. Instead of grinding up good stocks I practiced on 2 1/2" hard maple and Black Walnut dowels that I turned on a wood lathe. As you know when you can get around a round object without any run outs, skips, wandering or major Boo-Boos the semi flat areas seem like a cake walk. That "tail" is a bear to get to not pull or hold you back sometimes. I can see how simple point patterns are best for the Doiran and a skilled hand can make fast work of them. But your very artful patterns just seem to soak up hand work by the bucketful don't they?

One other key item to get is good light. You want to have good light that you can control and move around. You need light and dark shadowing sometimes plus good light will save your tired old eyes a lot. Natural light is great but I now need extra even in the day time. Nice to be able to difuse the light also.

Doug, Your checkering work is outstanding. Just started doing some checkering myself, mostly re-checkring worn out stocks and a few forends. Mostly 18, and a 22 lpi. Redoing a replacement beavertail that had hidious checkering, filed and sanded it and now trying to make a pattern to use. The forend has a roller release and it is off center lenthwise and I can't get a pattern drawn that looks symetrical.

Doug, Is that a bowling ball you have the cradle mounted on? Do you pinch the ball with the two blocks on the sides? What is under the ball?

Thanks all. Beautiful work Doug. That the legendary bowling ball?

Absolutely gorgeous work! Thank you for sharing the pictures.
JL

Doug gave up on bowling and took up checkering ---- aren't we glad. ken

Could someone please give me the name and supplier of tungsten carbide cutters similar to the Dembart cutters please?

Salo - Brownells, but IME they catch and grab in the wood more than the standard cutters. And somehow I doubt you can dull up a fine toothed one (and a dulled fine-tooth single line checkering tool is my finishing cutter) so keep a few old ones around just in case.