Hi all, so...what do all recommend as a gun oil for your fine doubles? Not talking lube or solvents.

I've been using Ezzox, but the cost to buy and ship is getting expensive.

I do have access to Ballistol, Clezoil, G96 and some others.

Thanks so much!!!

Greg

I just use Rem-Oil. Seems to lubricate just fine down here in the heat...Geo

I use Eezox. When it comes to my guns I really don't care what it costs.

Rem-oil gets it done for me.

DDA

Greg:

You buy "expensive guns", you already use the best, which is EEZOX and now you want to go on the CHEAP..?.. Does not make any sense.

It would be like putting re-cycled oil in your new Mercedes Greg.

Hi all, what I'm trying to do is find a product similar in performance and one that does the job that I can buy local. I'm looking for recommendations from folks who have used some of the other products that work just as well as Eezox.

I can't see were buying local for a just as good product is going on the cheap.

Best,

Greg

I'm sure ezzox is real good but more importantly along with a good oil is keeping it clean..I notice the dirt after shooting a lot on a target field. I don't understand where it comes from but Ii know it will cause scaring no mater what kind of oil.

I use Rem oil also and have been doing so for over 40 years. I am lucky in that my hands do not form rust which is caused by the salt in your system.

I do a lot of wood working and just recently there was an article about rust forming on metal surfaces. They cut pieces 2"x2" of both cast iron and A2 steel (air hardening tool steel) and covered the pieces with 19 different types of rust preventers, including paste wax and different fancy named oils. One set didn't have anything on them and the test was for 10 days. The put them in a freezer overnight. The untreated samples rusted immediately.
The best rust preventers were CRC Industrial 3-36, LPS 3, Moovit and WD-40.
They also did further testing to see if the top 6 rust preventers interfered with the finish on wood. None of the top 6 did as they were rubbed across wood and then applied oil and water based finishes over them without getting any discoloration.

The waxes, Johnson's Paste Wax, Renaisaance Wax, Camellia oil, Jojoba Oil were down near the bottom.
Same your money on Boeshield T9.

The CRC 336 sells for $6 for 11 ozs.

I forgot to add that after the 10 days the best rust preventers didn't have a trace of rust on either surfaces.

old ed swears by nyoil.

I use Rem oil for internal lubrication and Ren wax on the surface. Here in Arizona rust isn't a major problem.
Jim

Over here Ballistol is considered the Old Reliable.

With kind regards,
Jani

I like to make things more complicated than necessary, so I don't use just one oil. I use Hoppe's T3 which heavier and doesn't run much for the bearing points between the FE and the action and other contact points in the action - except for the hinge pin or stubs, which get lubricating grease. I use the lighter Hoppes 9 oil for moving parts like ejectors, safety slides etc. And I use Clenzoil as a wipedown oil.

This is a lot more interesting than just using one oil for everything.

Not talking lubes or solvents means we're talking preservation against oxidation.

Goldenrod (or facsimile). That's #1 through #10, IMO.

#11, pick your poison: CLP, Ballistol, Clenzoil, RIG, M1Syn, BC Sheath, G96, WD40 (sez Brownells), Rem-Oil, Eezox, eieio.

Some anti-seize forumulations will support galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (eg., graphite and Fe/Al interfaces). Don't imagine many here would even think to use never-seize on their fine doubles, though.

I'll vote for Young's 303 oil. Not the modern stuff but the older version if you can find it. If only for the beautiful bouquet. The smell gets into the lining of the leather and oak gun case and just smell perfect when it's opened. A small that is on a par with real leather seats in cars. Mmmmmm. Lagopus.....

G96, THE BEST

Many gun oils work well on double mechanisms. I don't shoot them thousands of rounds, though. The one thing I enjoy is an oil applicator with a syringe type spout to apply the oil accurately in the proper small dossage to hard to get at parts.

G96 is very good and underrated. I remember ordering it as a kid in the mid-'60's from a catalog I used to receive called Shooters Supply, I think it was.
JR

This is about as comprehensive a comparison of the gun oils as you will find -

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

My secret is out !! I was introduced to Red transmission fluid- oil several.years ago by black powder competitors. It has high levels of anti oxidants, is an excellent preservative and lubricant and cleaner It has never failed me.

+1 on this, though it is really a cleaner. I use Parker Hale Express oil as a strict 'oil', Parker Hale Youngs 303 inside the bores and Parker Hale Rangoon oil for preserving external surfaces ...... and no, I don't work for Parker Hale!

I also strongly agree with the post about cleaning away the dirt and grit before re-oiling - probably more important than the oil itself.

You folks over there sometimes really surprise me and why is that you may ask!!! Answer that resident of the USA Mr Ed Harris!!! He came up with the formula for one of the lowest priced and finest gun bore cleaners preservatives and lubricants “Ed’s Red”. The great thing about Ed’s Red you can adjust the mixtures constituents to your own needs and the cost to mix it up is absolutely rock bottom.
Don’t knock it without trying it I was extremely sceptical at first but I now use Ed’s Red all the time.

After seeing this test several years ago, switched to Frog Lube. And yes, because I am a little kid at heart, I ate some. Just because you can! LOL

I use Beretta gun oil on all of my double guns.

This topic comes up frequently on all types of shooting bulletin boards. Given the large numbers of "correct" answers it seems that consistent application of almost any product will provide lubrication and corrosion protection. I have switched to Eezox in the last year due to its corrosion protection and its ability to not collect dust and dirt. Frog Lube appears to be just as good, if not better. I, too, cringed at the price of Eezox and the fact that I had to ship it in, but even if I spent $50 a year on it, and it is a lot cheaper than rusty chambers or rebluing barrels. I bought a small bottle with a needle applicator and a larger bottle to refill the little one. Cheap protection as far as I'm concerned.
https://saronagunworks.com/
Regards,
Jeff

I suspect that this actually very true!

I switched to Ezzox several years back. Did not like the smell at first, but that changed and it is sweet to me now.

I buy it in gallon cans and decant into a sprayer. Note I have had it melt through a plastic sprayer once (a CLP spray bottle refilled with Ezzox) left on a work bench for a year so I recommend a metal oil sprayer.

I use Hoppes as a barrel solvent, because I still have not gotten around to creating Red transmission fluid- oil mix yet, but have no doubt I will one day

This has to be THE most overthought topic on gun and motorcycle boards. I used WD-40 for about 25 years before I understood that while it is a great protectant, it is not a great lubricant. Since then I have used RemOil, or whatever else -Breakfree CLP, 3in1 Oil, Browning Gun Oil, or whatever someone else had handy when I was away from home. None of my guns have any rust or excess wear. The point is, use something, and keep them clean and dry - or dry thoroughly ASAP after a swim. If you are going into cold conditions, make sure the lube is good for that. I can vouch for RemOil down to minus 11 F, but since I am no longer good for that myself it's kind of a moot point now.

Beeman MP-5.

inside cleansoil. Outside RIG. Lately RemOil has been smelling like it's cat piss.

I totally agree with Virginian--just about anything slick works fine. My goodness, whatever happened to Vaseline? I know some English smiths who still use it today as their preferred lube. What is of far more importance is keeping the guns clean. And excess lube's only function is to allow grit to gather into a grinding compound.

For those of you who are diligent about keeping the outside oil/anticorrosion treatment from harming the wood, what techniques can you suggest to get the oil all places it needs, and off the wood. Common troubles spots I've noted are the rear union points of action to stock. I try to judiciously apply the oil, then wipe off any that gets onto the wood, but in wiping that off the wood, I tend to remove from the metal. Kinda tedious. I'm thinking to apply a coat of wax such as Renaissance to those border areas of the wood to maybe beat back any oil absorption or finish issues. No I don't apply gobs of oil to my guns, but I do want an even thin film for anti-corrosion. Even that much can result in trouble to the wood over the decades.

hspruill,
Ballistol won't harm the wood.
Mike

All of my guns, whether they have an oil or urethane finish, have the head of the stock, the butt and inside the forend finished with urethane. No problems with oil soaked wood.
Regards,
Jeff

Evidently, I'm not the only heathen here. WD constitutes a proof - in a can - that lubes and preservatives are not necessarily the same thing.

WD is also a heckuva good powder/plastic fouling solvent.