Just finishing up a restock of a Winchester M 21 with a Miller Trigger. The action and trigger assy. works fine in the old stock but I cannot for the life of me figure out why it will
not function in the new one. Any ideas would be most appreciated! thank you. Gil Russell

Is the trigger rubbing any where on the new stock?
Is it allowing the inertia block to move to the rear?
Mike

double check the distance between the top and bottom tang as well. This distance is much more critical on a single trigger gun than a double trigger gun. you can build bushing similar to how a Mauser is pillar bedded to be sure the distance is the same.

SKB is correct, check your tabg screws. You might need to tighten or loosen them, compare each one and count the number of turns during installation to the old stock since it works fine with that wood. There isn’t much wood in the head of a Model 21 stock to begin with and he Miller design usually requires more to be removed. A little inletting black on the top of sear legs and selector components will help eliminate the possibility of wood interference being the issue.

Mike: The trigger won't release the first sear (non selective) so the inertia block isn't in the equation yet. These are all good ideas--thank you for the replies. Gil

ah yes, the old tang screw adjustment trick...never new dat...once again, proof that dgs is the best.

I am looking for a Miller trigger 21 from my past. It would be consecutive numbers either side of 13,138. Thanks for replying.

This information is not new Ed. Perhaps you'd know that if you had been paying attention instead of engaging in Trolling your anti-gun crap. DGS is best when Trolls like you are not around.

Anti-Gun Posts by Ed Good

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internet_troll

Dewey you’re not wrong but I have to believe you have made enough gun screws from scratch to agree that every one requires specific timing and torque. For example, if the heavy handed knuckle dragging excuse of a gunsmith overturns a sidelock screw it will pinch the locks and cause problems. Unlike the British best there are always extra threads on American and many Euro screws, ripe for overtightening!

My suggestion to Gil was to check that the screws installed in the new stock might not be tight enough or they might have been overtightened. The trigger plate may even need to be inletted deeper to allow another turn on the rear tang screw which has the odd round head. Checking their position against the original wood stock would help determine the appropriate number of turns. Most model 21 upper tang screws sit a little below flush, I doubt they were dressed down by hand.

If a “tang screw adjustment” corrects this you either have a stock slightly over or under inletted. Under is easier to fix, just inlet it more. Over inlet can be a real problem if the wood is not slightly proud of the metal. Never figured out how to stretch wood more.

I had a Sterlingworth pin gun with a miller trigger which had been restocked. It had both wood interference problems and was over inlet. Easy way to fix it was to just restock it. Well not the easy way but the one I took. You could try the tang screw approach first. Or even measure the old stock and new stock. Most likely you have a very slight wood to metal interference problem. Plain terms, it hits somewhere it should not. Have you smoked it and looked for any spots?

Dewey, my friend, could you elaborate a bit on the Purdey statement? I agree with your statement, but I don't know what the alternatives are.

A reference point for the subconscious vision as to where the muzzles are in relation to the target to discern lead?
JR

deleted

Dewey,

No worries, my apologies for making it seem that I was reading into it in that way. I like a couple of your solutions to reduce the chance of tampering, cut ultra thin slots or hide the bloody screws altogether!