Some of my old time Coleman (lanterns/etc) buds recommended this wax for a restoration shine. It seems good enough for the Crown Jewels so... Should I continue oiling the metal and wax the wood on my safe Queens? It says good for all metal, leather and such, what do you do?

* Not to be confused with Brazilian Wax

I had used CCL stock oil, but after 20 years the oil my little bottle was getting where it was taking a very long time to dry. I read about renaissance wax over the years, almost all positive. So I ordered a tin of it. I do like it, very quick and easy to apply. Makes a nice glow on the stock. I haven't used it on metal yet. Just can't stop wiping down metal with an oily rag.

I have applied it to the exterior of the barrels on my vintage doubles for the last few years with no noted deleterious effects.

I use it as Ol'Forester has suggested and it works very well. I use Clenzoil on the metal and Renaissance wax on the wood.
Karl

I use Renaissance wax on wood and metal. When I "French Gray" engraving scenes, removing bluing with Naval Jelly, I then coat with a couple of coats of the wax that has lamp black added to bring out the engraving followed by a couple of coats of clear wax. Has worked great for me.

Sam, Is that you from Kodiak?? This is Mike that worked with Wilma and lived on Dark/Island Lake!

Hi, I use RW on the stocks of my guns, I don't wax any metal parts however. It's a great product, gives a wonderful shine/glow to the wood. Not a long lasting wax if the gun is used much.

One thing about RW, don't let it dry too long, it can be a b**** to get off if it hardens.

Overall, a great product!

Good Luck!

Greg

I've been using it for years and years...for use there are better waxes.

jOe is right. If I'm going to be out in some crappy weather or want something longer lasting, I like to use:

https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/prod...14j-11-oz-paste

It does protect better than RW. Won't harm wood finishes BTW.

But for show and light use RW is hard to beat.

Best,

Greg

During my 12 years living on Kodiak Island, before each hunting season I pulled my rifle apart and coated wood and metal with Johnsons Floor Wax (paste). Never a bit of rust no matter how wet the weather (most of the time) or salty the air (all the time).

Yes Mike, it is I!

I can vouch for that. I started the Johnsons wax 5 or so years ago on a 94 Win. thuty - thuty. Striped it & cleaned it of all traces of oil & then coated every part with Johnsons wax, it is also acting as the lube. No trouble, no rust, easy clean & wipe over more wax & polish off excess. Rained in sweated on & carried on the dirt bike hot & cold, proved the value of Johnsons wax to me.
I now use no oil on my guns. just some moly engine assembly grease on sears & hinge pin.
Happy happy happy.

O.M

I have used Johnson's for so many years I can't even guess how many. Never an issue with it. I have also used Renaissance, and I believe it may give a bit warmer glow when polished off, but in no way believe it to be superior to Johnson's for sheer protection from the elements. None of it replaces oil and grease for their prospective uses. I use the waxes to protect a gun's exterior, short term, from rain and water.

SRH

You have any ejector doubleguns?

SRH

I put RW on any gun going into the safe and I'm not sure when it will be coming out. I leave the haze on the metal and buff off when removed from safe.

Not good for weather proofing though.

Yes Stan I do have an ejector doublegun.
It is a Skimin & Wood & works just fine, throwing both empties in time & landing together.

O.M

I used to use Johnson's Paste Floor Wax on the wood of my oil-finished guns, but I found that it got extremely gummy in hot and humid conditions, even when buffed to a microscopically thin coating. I feel like I should start waxing some of them again but don't want the gumminess. For those of you using Renaissance or Meguiar's in really hot climates (like southern Arizona, 115+ with 75%+ humidity), have you had any problems with the wax getting sticky? My guns are all using guns.

That's odd, Replacement. I've never noticed that gummy condition, and I hauled an old double in my pickup on the farm for many years, in Georgia heat and humidity, waxed with Johnson's.

SRH

Thanks, Stan. It did seem odd, but it happened over several seasons on a few guns that I had waxed.

I just ordered a small tin of Renaissance to test it. We'll be hot around here through Thanksgiving. Not unusual for the duck opener to be near 100. I ruled out the Meguiar's because even Meguiar's says it is not "body shop safe," which probably means it contains some silicone.

I have been meaning to test some of the auto waxes like turtle or nu-finish.

O.M

Virtually all commonly available auto waxes contain silicone, which can/will cause problems if you ever decide to refinish the wood. Meguiar's, as an example, has a section on their website that lists their "body shop safe" products, and none of them are waxes. Lots of polishes and glazes, but no waxes. Your safest bet in automotive waxes would be pure carnuba.

With all the good wood waxes available I can't for the life of me figure why anyone would put automotive wax on a firearm.

Since I started this thread about Renaissance Wax I bought a tin of it. A small project was some new made clip boards ($1.50) that I wanted to "age" for use to display my collection of old trap & skeet score sheets. I burned off the plating, sanded/stained the hard board then waxed the metal and hard board all with RW wax-- the project came out very cool, with the smooth feel of age and use!

I'm a lapsed kapnismologist, (pipe smoker), I used to spend time restoring old, valuable pipes. The final step in restoration is charging a buffing wheel with a block of carnuba and buffing the pipe. That is one tough finish, not sticky at all. Would take a while to do a gunstock though.