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30" extractor barrels markek Belgian near breech and doll's head ext- and Laminated Steel mid rib- rib has same patterns as barrels- some minor scuffing, thin walled at muzzles-.035/.040", at breech o.850" both tubes- both top and bottom ribs intact- no dents, and barrels ring- std. brass small bead front sight

Hammer double trigger marked on lockplates W. Richards Belgium-- full stock with POW grip, black gutta percha bp- splinter forearm with spring snap release ( as on Parker Trojan series)-

Pictures to come along later (if Raimey Ellenberg will kindly post them for me)- as he has in the past.

My guess is- this was an attempt to "cash in" on the reputation of the British gunmaking firm, Westley Richards-- just as I have seen cheaper "knock-offs" of hammer Parkers badged as "Parkhurst"-- if any of you gents can shed any light on this brand of European hammer guns, thank you in advance. Only sign of a serial number is on the under rib- mid way from breech to muzzle- 4311 and a letter D in a circle- breech flats markings are:left tube Large letter C-- in an oval, letters E over L and G over a 5 pointed smaller star--more to follow- RWTF
I believe that most of the W Richards marked guns made in Belgium were low-end Pieper made guns, though not 100% positive. My uncle had one of these Belgian made W Richards & was carrying it about his arm one day & stopped to work on a fence. He laid it on the ground & when he finished work he forgot he had it & left it. Didn't discover it missing for a few days & thought it had been stolen. About a year later he stumbled across it, but it was of course totally ruined by then.

He also had my Grandfathers W Richards which has Birmingham proofs. It appears to have been built by J P Clabrough & Bros. I now have this gun as well as the "parts" of the Belgian one. The Birmingham gun is an older gun than the Belgian. Although a long way from a "Best" it is obvious it was a higher quality gun than the Belgian.
2-Piper, W(William)Richards out of Liverpool was no slouch! They may have records https://www.wrichardsguns.co.uk/
Many thanks, gents. I also have a Remington 12 bore hammer gun- will have more details after I can get the barrels to uncouple from the receiver--if memory serves, in one of my back issues of DGJ there was a lengthy article on the Remington hammer guns- RWTF
Send them on Francis & I'll rectify my Photobucket account, I guess.

Serbus,

Raimey
rse
RARiddell;
My gun is not a William Richards. Although it is in such poor present condition it's a bit hard to tell, but quality-wise I put it above a Belgian W Richards but beneath the Liverpool W Richards.

Somewhere on the internet I once found a posting by W Richards of Liverpool showing markings that would be found on all guns of their make. Was plain & simple mine wasn't among them. Mine is strictly a wall hanger, kept Solely for its sentimental value.

It appears to be well established that Clabrough did indeed build some low-cost guns carrying the W Richards name, so I assume mine is one of these.
Danke- somehow I knew you would come through for me, as you have done in the past. Being a computer/internext "Putz", I'm a bit uncertain as to what you mean here, meine Fruend. If there is any cost factor to you for doing this on my behalf, please advise and I will make it right for you--I also have some initial details on the 12 gauge Remmie hammer gun-- 32" barrels- top rib near breech is stamped-- Remington Arms Co. Ilion, N.Y. USA. sn on under rib seems to be 35991-- one problem-- hammers and triggers function fine, ditto top lever-How-some-ever- when you unlatch the forearm and pivot open the breech, the barrels will NOT come free from the receiver- Never have seen this before-.. RWTF
Fox, maybe push the toplever over far as it will go?...Geo
I own a Belgian "W Richards" (no period after the W). Mine is a 16ga, composite barrels, exposed hammers, ball grip and splinter F/E. Actually a pretty nice gun.
thank you, Suh- will try a soft tap with a plastic hammer-otherwise, I don't know what is preventing the barrels from pivoting out of the frame--RWTF
Fox wait until next spring.

After the weather warms plant you two tomAto plants about a 18" apart. After they reach a height of about 18" drive the JABC in the ground barrels first right between the two plants.

Use material of your choosing to tie the plants up.

Good luck
I have a number of Remington doubles. The problem with getting the barrels off is Remingtons method of extraction of the shells and the linkage underneath.First you have to make sure the top lever is held all the way over, then with the barrels all the way down you'll have to play the barrels up and down. It's hard to explain, but no hammer is needed, just a bit of patience and fiddling around. When putting them back on,first push the extractors out.
Thanks, Paul--I'll try it- if I end up with this shotgun, it would be mainly as a "parts" gun- the hammers, fgp, springs, triggers are all there- even the older black buttplate intact--

I'll give it another try with your technique- main reason I want to remove barrels is to examine the markings on the barrel flats and water table- if any- still looking for that article
on Rem. may have been in SS magazine- a few years ago-- also, forgot to add- the 30" W. Richards barrels ring like chimes with the wooden hammer handle test- no apparent choke in either barrels- muzzles are aprox. 0.800" wall thickness, each barrel- so- close to cyl. bore?? RWTF-- Addendum- BINGO- finally got the barrels pivoted off the frame, patience, lotsa spray Rem Oil, and your technique, Paul- did the trick. Now to clean off the rust and crud contained in the frame and barrel breech areas- once I see the clear numerical markings, I'll post them-- I did a Google search, this appears to be a Remington 1878 series hammer gun- Triggers, hammers, fp's all seem to be in good working order-0 POW grip, Bakelite BP with original screws, possibly a No. 1 grade-- Foxy
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