Does anyone here know what this screw does? I was having problems with the left barrel firing. It had a lot of creep and at the end of travel would sometimes be hard to pull. Naturally it made shooting un pleasant. I have owned the gun for a number of years but used it for stocked pheasants, chuckers. Somehow lucky enough that I didn't have to use the second trigger that I remember and only used it a few times.
I took it apart and cleaned it and adjusted the screw out. It seems to have taken it away from the block that I'm guessing fires the hammers.
The pull seems to be shorter and quicker but can't really tell without firing it with loads.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/URb91xF.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/6U4K1RC.jpg?1[/img]

that screw connects the top lever to the bolt ,it could been contacting the left side sear from the looks of the picture

Thanks, it is not contacting the left sear, I put it all back together without the stock, put barrels on and for-end and pulled back trigger and it does not make contact with the sear.

Does the gun have an auto-safe?

If so, is that pivoting/moving plate what resets the Safe when the action is opened.
If it is then maybe with the screw too tight, the plate can't come back forward all the way after the action is closed.
That might leave the auto-safe bar still to the rear slightly & in partial contact with the safety mechanism/linkage itself.
Perhaps making for the tough pull on one of the triggers.

Things don't always (usually) line up inside a SXS the same way when put together with the stock on as with the stock off.
Tangs flex, screws turned a 1/4 turn one way or the other can make a difference in safety, sears and triggers working well or not at all.
It may work fine one way and not the other.
One of the tough things about fixing single trigger guns, you can't see what's really going on inside there.

Just some thoughts..

Kutter it does have an auto safety. The block moves when the action is opened forcing the rod to push the safety to SAFE.

I will have to fire it and let you know if anything changed.

I believe the gun was made in the 1920's and when taken apart I was surprised on how clean it was. I did not take the two pins out on the side of the receiver, one is for what looks like a spring on each side where the firing pins are. The other one I'm not sure of. One of these days when I get ambitious I will take it all apart.

My main interest is L.C. Smith's. I can take them apart and put back fairly easily. I have seen where one half turn on the connecting screw will prevent the Hunter One Trigger from firing. Also the top tang screw under the top lever will do the same if too tight. Luckily that screw head is tapered like the top tang so orientating it is fairly easy. I usually use a dial caliper and take reading before taking apart these HOT guns.

The rear pin on the frame is what the sears pivot on.
The front pin is what the hammers pivot on.
I'm guessing the firing pins are integral with the hammer face. Most are. Just like a Fox and others.
But some may have separate pins inside. Ithaca did theirs that way.

Removing the sear pivot pin is easy enough especially once you remove the sear springs themselves to take tension off of the sears.
Most Belgian guns use a flat spring arrangement that's simple to see and usually screw attached at one end and bearing down on the sear at the other.

A few have a small coil spring in a blind hole in the upper side of sear itself to the rear of the pivot pin. I see that arrangement more on Spanish guns but some Belgian as well.
(Probably not here as the pivot is at the very back edge of the frame)
This type you can't get at to remove first to take tension off the sear arm. But the sear will pop free once the pin is driven thru.

The hammer is probably powered by a V spring betw it and the front portion of the roof of the water table inside there.
Driving the pin out will release the hammer(s), though sometimes they do hang up yet in the frame on their firing pin nose stuck in the frame. That's if the hammers have a firing pin all as one piece.

Getting hammer and spring back in place requires help from a simple tool used to depress the assembly and reinsert the pin.
You use the opening at the front of the action where the cocking arm is located (with that arm removed) as a leverage point for the tool and simply depress the hammer and it's spring as a unit.
You can do the same with a rig up of a clamps and shims to depress the hammer & spring.
But it's not the most secure way to work with a powerful spring and loose hammer. They can skip out of place and take off like a bullet on you,, and at you.
I've done it that way many times, but prefer the tool to hold things in check and it makes life easy and a bit safer. Problem is you have to take the time to make it and then will you ever use it again if you don't do this work all the time.

Whatever you do,,wear good eye protection. Those things bite hard.

Kutter, thanks for the information. I could see when it was apart what the front and back pin did but I did not take them out.
Trying to get information on these guns is very hard, I tried UTube and found one like it and it does show the hammers and firing pin as one unit.
I will try it and see how it shoots now, if the same maybe I will dig in and take it all apart.

Again, thanks for the information.