I'll try to make this as pertinent as possible. I have a very large paper map of the Savannah River, which I live very near and hunt ducks on. It is roughly 60"H X 72"W., much too large for me to consider having framed. I want to be able to hang it on a wall, in my shop or hunting camp possibly, not at home. Framing, and using glass or plexiglass, would be prohibitive in cost, and the map is not really valuable, in dollars.
If I glued it to a sheet of plywood, is there any clear sealer that I could use on it to seal the surface to protect it against dirt, or light damage from the elements? I've never tried anything like that and hope someone here has experience with something similar, or has another idea.
Thanks, SRH
Have you checked on laminating it @ say Staples, or similar, for maybe $5 per square foot? Possible then but it behind glass to reflect the Infrared?
Cheers,
Raimey
rse
Framing, and using glass or plexiglass, would be prohibitive in cost, and the map is not really valuable, in dollars.
After Stan's last gun purchase I can see why he's looking to go cheAp....
Cheap solution - window shrink wrap it.
First, take it to the Blueprint shop and have it copied.
Then hang up either the original or copy and use backer board
and window shrink wrap
Mike
p.s. here is the one in Amarillo, Tx
http://www.blueprinter.com/index.html
Have you checked on laminating it @ say Staples, or similar, for maybe $5 per square foot? Possible then but it behind glass to reflect the Infrared?
Cheers,
Raimey
rse
I'll look into that, Raimey. That would be a solution.
How would "window shrink wrap" work? Not sure what y'all are talking about.
Might not should copy it, Mike. It can be bought today, and there might be some copyright protection, or something like that, on it.
Thanks, SRH
OH!!! Not an old scarce map, one that can be bought??
Well not a problem,
Jigsaw puzzle glue and backer board
Mike
Framing, and using glass or plexiglass, would be prohibitive in cost, and the map is not really valuable, in dollars.
After Stan's last gun purchase I can see why he's looking to go cheAp....
Knowing how much you dearly love my Grandaddy's quotes I'll share another ....... jes' fer you. "Watch the pennies, son, and the dollars will take care of themselves".
SRH
We have a collection of old maps. My wife also has a collection of old documents.
Their preservation is difficult and fraught with peril.
Do not laminate your map with any kind of glue, adhesive, varnish, acrylic whatever.
I would take a sheet of Styrofoam from the Home center, and then shrink film it with a plastic film kit that you use for a patio door.
Put the sticky tape on the back of the foam, center up your map, and use a hair dryer to shrink it tight. Work wrinkles out from center.
So would you even consider any laminate, even 5 mil Polycarb? Still it would be say 30 square feet of effort.
Cheers,
Raimey
rse
When I was an apprentice one of the apprentice auto spray painters used to get the titty girl magazine pages & spray the wall with clear coat, then slap the page on that & spray a couple more coats on top.
They were good for years.
O.M
Glue it on the wall with wallpaper glue just like any wallpaper job. Then spray it with lacquer. One or two cans should do it. Test it first.
Stan,
The copyright owner might come after you if you were selling copies of his work, but not a copy for personal use. For that amount, he couldn't pay is lawyer to compose the letter( or buy the stamp to send it). You don't need to worry.
Mike
If you want to glue it to some backing do so then visit a car detailing/decal place and get a clear plastic film to go over it. You could get the thin stuff they put on windows or the heavier they put on the vehicle body that protects from rocks etc
Lots of good ideas. Thanks to all.
After its done I'll resurrect this thread and post a picture.
SRH
Only a thought or two. If it's not a particularly valuable map and you want to mount it on a sheet of ply, maybe you could trim the map to four feet wide? Maybe, use white faced MDF so it doesn't telegraph color or grain. I'd suspect any glue or other curing finish would make paper a tad translucent, and quality smooth ply or five foot wide ply might get pricey just to get covered up. I know sheet products can be edge joined, but it'll take fiddling not to telegraph the joint.
For tidying it up, someone could neatly tack some plainish 1/4" trim around the edge to 'frame' it, just as if someone might want to cover the layers of ply that would show on the edge. If there's some map legend or other desireable info that gets trimmed off. It might be able to be repositioned on some featureless part of the map off of the river. I've saved a smaller map to do similar at some point only for sentimental reasons, and it wouldn't bother me if someone has to chuck it in a dumpster down the road. Best of luck with it.
Wallpaper paste. Made for the job. Then lacquer.
Might not should copy it, Mike. It can be bought today, and there might be some copyright protection, or something like that, on it.
Thanks, SRH
Want we should take up a collection fer ya....
I'd be cautious of using lacquer and try to find some non yellowing if I went that way.
Been using Aquaseal Map Seal on my topo quads for almost 50 years now. And my first maps done with it are still good to go today.
Map Seal Liquid Aquaseal Depends on how porous the paper your map is printed on, it may take a couple of bottles.
Nobody, here, suffers buyers remorse. A few sellers remorse cases, maybe.
The mark, er, friend, who bought your sleever still shooting it?
Best,
Ted
I'd be cautious of using lacquer and try to find some non yellowing if I went that way.
Been using Aquaseal Map Seal on my topo quads for almost 50 years now. And my first maps done with it are still good to go today.
Map Seal Liquid Aquaseal Depends on how porous the paper your map is printed on, it may take a couple of bottles.
That my be just the product I need. Even though I won't be hauling this big old map around, the extreme humidity here needs to be protected against. Thanks for a personal testimonial about it.
SRH
Oh yeah. Bad as I hate to admit it.
I wish I could have gotten it 15 years ago !!!!!
SRH
Nobody, here, suffers buyers remorse. A few sellers remorse cases, maybe.
The mark, er, friend, who bought your sleever still shooting it?
Best,
Ted
Hard to have buyers remorse with a Purdey hammer gun.
Oh yeah. Bad as I hate to admit it.
I wish I could have gotten it 15 years ago !!!!!
SRH
Usually there's the show n tell...
Buyers remorse comes when one realizes he can't live long enough to recoup his investment...either monetarily or by use.
. Usually there's the show n tell...
Buyers remorse comes when one realizes he can't live long enough to recoup his investment...either monetarily or by use.
Just can't fit me into your parameters, just can't get your head around me, can you jOe? Keep trying. We're all having some good belly laughs watching you struggle.
SRH
Nobody, here, suffers buyers remorse. A few sellers remorse cases, maybe.
The mark, er, friend, who bought your sleever still shooting it?
Best,
Ted
Hard to have buyers remorse with a Purdey hammer gun.
Bet he does.
Best,
Ted
A lot of the buyer's remorse around here comes right after you post pictures of the new gun you are so proud of and someone nitpicks it to smithereens just for the fun of it...Geo
A lot of the buyer's remorse around here comes right after you post pictures of the new gun you are so proud of and someone nitpicks it to smithereens just for the fun of it...Geo
Yeah Geo, and it gets even worse when someone like Crying Bob posts pics of an expensive gun that he doesn't even own... And then doesn't respond to a question as to whether he had shot it.The real nitpicking started when he was forced to admit that it didn't really belong to him. But it wasn't the gun that got nitpicked to smithereens. It seems that fake buyers remorse can be worse than actual buyers remorse. I really enjoyed that one!
I do like Craig's idea of using MDF rather than plywood as a backer for this map. Either way, the tough part is getting a seam that isn't visible since the map is 5 feet wide. That alone makes Clapper Zapper's suggestion to use foam board a viable option too. The light weight of closed cell foam board would be nice too. What I don't know is whether that storm window shrink film is available in sheets over 5 feet wide.
Apologies Stan.
Please tell us all which gun you're referring to lying keith.
Why just today you were exposed as a liar in another thread regarding this claim.
Yup- those folks try to make a livin' by pickin' fly poop out of the pepper--RWTF
Looks like the MDF is going to be too heavy for my need. The closed cell foam board mentioned, what is that exactly and where is it available?
I was thinking yesterday about the white synthetic board that people are using now for small campaign signs, where they slide a metal support up into it, between the front and back layer, and push the metal legs into the ground. It's stable, lightweight, and shouldn't be expensive. If it's available in thicker sheets it would be better, maybe 3/8". Anybody know what it's called? Probably available through a sign shop.
SRH
This is the kind of thread we end up when when senile old fArts are allowed to type...
Just saying.
If this thread is the result of senility, why have yOu replied on it more times than any one else? Mull that one over for awhile.
yOu're constantly shooting yOurself in the foot, and can't learn better. Senility, or just stUpid?
SRH
There are several well known brands of closed cell insulation board that have a nice flat surface and are tougher than Styrofoam. Yet they are only marginally heavier than Styrofoam, which is considered an open cell insulation. There is the blue Dow insulation board and the Owens Corning pink insulation board that comes in various thicknesses. They are made from extruded polystyrene, and it cuts nicely with a razor sharp utility knife. Then there is also the DuPont Tuff-R brand that is usually a bit more expensive. It is aluminum foil faced polyisocyanurate. Here up north, they are available at most lumber yards. Naturally, being a light foam material, the surface can be dented fairly easily. I've joined it to itself or other surfaces using spray foam insulation such as minimal expanding Great Stuff. If you wanted to get fancy, you could dress it up a bit and protect the edges from abuse by making a simple frame out of MDF or other molding.
Thanks Saskbooknut and Keith. I really appreciate it.
SRH
Stan, if you want to laminate it to something flat, stiff, and light, look at Wedi Board or one one its knockoffs. Wedi is a foamcore backer board used for tile and stone installations. It's relatively light, waterproof, and very stable. Both faces are smooth and it comes in 4x8x1/2" sheets, and I think it also comes in 3x5x1/2" sheets. Two 3x5s might be perfect for the map size, using a couple of wood strips across the back to hold them together and act as hanging strips. Wedi has a proprietary adhesive for gluing the stuff together, edge to edge.
Thanks Replacement. I'll check on it next time I'm near a building supply.
SRH
We hold our bAited breath waiting to see the final product....
Keep holding it until you do, cause yOu never will.
We hold our bAited breath waiting to see the final product....
It's
bated breath, not
baited. Unless yOu've been snacking on worms or crickets.
SRH
There are several foam or plastic core laminates out there.
I bought a vinyl core aluminum laminate to make "keep out-gun range" signs for the club.We cut it on the table saw, and applied vinyl lettering decals for 10 year durable signs.
Sask....
Stan was just thinking out loud again.
Keep holding it until you do, cause yOu never will.
We hold our bAited breath waiting to see the final product....
It's
bated breath, not
baited. Unless yOu've been snacking on worms or crickets.
SRH
Very funny Stan.
File that one under early Christmas gift.