Renaissance Wax;

This question may have been answered before. But then I did not need to know about this wax before

This the wax any better than all the various waxes. Or is all hype selling an overpriced product to us as a bill of goods.

Thanks for the info


The real John Boyd in Houston Texas

Depends what you need a wax for.

Renaissance wax is a petroleum based fine crystal wax that's known for it's stability.

It's not a scam which seems to be your concern.

It has a higher melting point than beeswax and most carnauba or paraffin waxes and does not get all sticky in warmer temps on a gun stock for instance.

I use it on my M1 stocks with good results.

I like it, And I use it. If it's used on valuable pieces in museums I can trust it on my better guns. If I want to duck hunt in rainy weather or in wet conditions with my BSS I'll use Johnson's and really lay it on thick.

SRH

I've preached this for years and I'll say it again. Thompson's Water Seal (red label solvent-based) is better than any wax for protection from water on a shotgun's wood and metal. Goes on really well as a liquid with a small brush for total coverage. One secret I've learned is to put it in a warm place so it is not in a gel-like state but a well thinned liquid.

It is harmless and lasts, but can be removed with mineral spirits. I've put it on every kind of wood finish and it has zero detrimental effects. Prevents rust really well also.

It does leave a waxy film but nothing terribly objectionable. It can be polished down after the solvent evaporates but it won't shine up like a product such as Renaissance, which I'm sure is a fine product and priced accordingly.
JR

I've used it for quite some time and it works.
Karl

Last year I ran out of CCL stock conditioning oil that I had always used on my CSMC fox(25 yrs).
I purchased some renaissance wax to use on it, made a nice sheen. Until a wet week of grouse hunting. It did not last and in fact some of the remaining oil finish sort of flaked/wore off. Have since bought more CCL oil through Double Gun Journal.
I think renaissance wax makes a nice finish for a clays gun or display, I won't use it for a field/hunting gun again.

Not sure any wax would hold up hunting for a week in the rain, or wet snow. Renaissance doesn't claim to do that, and I wouldn't expect it to..

SRH

Pretty much everything ever written about Renaisance wax on this BBS.

I have been using ceramic wax on my gloss finished guns and the results have been good so far.

Bill

Renaissance Wax. "Much ado about nothing". Over stated, over priced, over hyped, and not much used on this side of the pond, unless you have your guns in class cases for people to view as if in a Museum.

Would you care to enlighten on exactly how it is "Over priced (and) over hyped"? Have you tested it for the purposes it is advertised, by the makers, to be intended for, and found it over priced and over hyped?

Here is the product description, by the makers, verbatim:


Product description
Extraordinary wax polish restores, refreshes and protects fine furniture, antiques, precious metals, collectibles, art and much more. It's also ideal for use as a friction finish for woodturning. It dries hard instantly, resists liquid spillage, does not show finger marks, freshens colors, and imparts a soft sheen. Developed by the British Museum in the early 1950s for fine art conservation, Renaissance Wax Polish is a blend of highly refined micro-crystalline fossil-origin waxes. It can be used on virtually all solid surface materials - even paper. The #1 choice of museums, galleries and professionals worldwide! For furniture, apply sparingly with a soft cloth and buff gently. Made in England. 65 ml can.


Lacking clarification on your statement I'm assuming you meant for use on guns. Nowhere in the product description is it specified as a great product for guns. Did you mean for furniture, galleries and collectibles in general? OBTW, for it's intended uses, it's rated 5 Star by 84% of 452 purchasers to bothered to rate it.

If you have specific information that would shed greater light on it's true value, I'd really appreciate it.

SRH

I use Renaissance wax mixed with a bit of lamp black to highlight and protect French grayed metal engravings. Also waxed some engraved aluminum guitar inlays about 6 years ago and so far no sign of oxidation...still nice and shiny.

I'm with Stan on the Johnson's paste wax for protecting a gun when out in the weather...no rust after several years in the Kodiak, AK salt environment.

I have a can or two. Seems like a nice clean consistent wax with a fossily smell. I use it now and then, and will most likely never use up one can. It works pretty well on on slings.

I like the paste wax idea for wet conditions.

There are a number of spray-on products made specifically to stop corrosion on steel shop tools like table saws. They are vastly better than Johnson's paste wax. Ever try them on guns? They have worked well for me. But my favorite one is no longer available for some reason.

Stan you are starting to come over as as the person who said let me see the nail holes. Unless you are now the incumbent of the Witch finder general post. I have my opinions and I do not see any reason on this planet why I should justify them to you. Just incase you have forgotten we live in a democracy, Just in case you have forgotten "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it"
Clear!!!!!

Same here Bill......that's some slick stuff! I use RW too. I like it but I rarely shoot in a deluge.

Its not about whether or not we agree, damascus. I asked for reasons why you feel like you do. If you don't have them, or don't want to share them, that's fine. End of discussion.

SRH

For the most part I have quit using it. It does leave a very nice and shiny finish but I found it to not be very durable out in the field. Guess I’m old fashioned but I’m back to Johnson’s paste floor wax. To protect metal surfaces I have never found anything better than a thin coat of Formby’s Tung Oil. It’s very durable and withstands the worst weather you can throw at it.

Joe, is it any tung oil that will do the job or is there something unique about Formby's?

I used Johnson’s on a couple of oil finished guns years ago and it was a disaster. In extreme heat and humidity, it turned into a gooey mess, no matter how much I buffed it.

I know I’m not Joe, but Formby's isn't tung oil and doesn't contain tung oil. It isn't an oil/varnish mix. It is a wiping varnish, that may be based on tung oil, but even that isn’t very clear. It dries extremely fast and doesn’t look or act like pure tung oil at all.

What is best for protecting a gun from salt water? A few coats of Eezox didn't protect from rust spots even when I thought no water had touched the metal and I cleaned the gun right away.

Try the Thompson's Water Seal.
JR

Thank you.

Just to be sure I'm not misunderstood about Renaissance Wax, I like and use it. But, don't recommend it for protection against extreme hunting use. I use it to put a nice temporary coating on my guns when I'm taking them out for an afternoon of clays, show and tell, etc. I like the luster it gives (which is definitely prettier than Johnson's) and I like the temporary protection from fingerprints on the metal. We tend to get hot and sweaty quite regularly down heah'. It isn't recommended for protection from hard hunting use, rain, etc., and I see no reason to fault it because it doesn't do something it doesn't claim to do. And, at $17.95 a can I am a bit puzzled at why it is considered high priced. My can will likely last me another twenty years. You use it very sparingly, unlike Johnson's, which I put on fairly heavy for protection from the wet.

I've never had the sticky, gumminess with Johnson's that Replacement did. Also glad to hear that SamW has had good success with it at Kodiak, AL. From what I've read and seen on TV that can be some pretty extreme conditions.

Best, SRH

I'll say this about tung oil. Pure tung oil is a varnish. It will cure hard on metal that can be very difficult to remove, and will gum up the innards on a firearm. I would be very hesitant to apply it as a rust or corrosion preventative on a fine gun.
JR

John Roberts, I am intriqued (sp?) about your comments about Thompson's Water Seal on guns. Ive used gallons of it over the years on cedar decoys prior to painting with oil paints and have been very happy with it.

I have a 10ga Remington 1894 with 32" damascas barrels. It is my late season duck gun here on Lake Champlain. Do you see any negatives on applying it to the barrels? would I have to wipe down the barrels with something first to get the Rem Oil off it?

Thanks,
Mergus

Thanks John. Can the Thompsons Waterseal also be used on internal parts like locks and extractors, or does it gum them up?

Mergus and LGF: I can assure you the TWS will not harm the 1894 in any way and will do a great job of fighting off water damage. I wouldn't put it on the internals.
JR

Thanks, John.

Thanks guys so much for all the great input.

Really appreciate your time on this

Stay Well

John Boyd

To me, the beauty of Renaissance is the ease with which it can be buffed out. That's it. If I worked in a museum, that's why I would use and recommend it.

I use it when putting guns into the safe. For actual bad weather paste wax.

John Roberts, thanks for the reply.

Mergus

Pretty close to my sentiments, too.

SRH

Renaissance for oldies in the safe, Johnsons Floor wax for the shooters, Mothers for the Magnum Hemi and when fettling Coleman lantern founts (painted and nickel)-never wax the vents!.

I still have a can of the Johnsons wax from when I lived in AK and used it regularly on both my rifles and shotguns. The can must be 35 years old or more. I lived in western AK and unless it was winter, seemed to be always very wet and rainy. Oh yeah, I did use on my guns on a number of deer hunting trips to Kodiak, Afognak, in Cold Bay chasing waterfowl, Prince William Sound bear hunting and various other salt water environments and I never did get any rust, that I recall.

Cameron, Kodiak Island is where I started using paste wax, Hunting the Raspberry Island elk! Nothing says rust like an open skiff running up on a herd of Sitka deer on a beach in Uganik Bay!

Ditto Mike's experience...Kodiak salt!!

Hey all, just thought I'd add my 2c worth.

I use Ren wax on my stocks when the weather is nice with no moisture in the forecast. Works great and gives a wonderful shine. One thing about this wax is, don't let it dry too hard. If you do, I've found it takes a lot of effort to buff it out. Much easier to let it dry for a couple minutes then buff.

I've used Johnson's wax, didn't care for i. It always left a cloudy haze and wore off to easy.

What I use now for foul weather or if I want that extra protection is: Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus wax. This stuff wears like iron, gives a great shine and protects the stock against light scratches. I like it.

I don't wax my bbls or any of the metal parts of my guns. I just use a good quality oil like Eezox.

Like I said, just my 2c worth.

Hope all of you and yours have a very Happy Independence Day!

Greg

I've seen numerous tests designed to determine the corrosion resistance of various gun oils. But I have never seen a side-by-side test of various waxes that would show us which provided the best shine, durability, and overall protection to wood finishes or metal under all conditions. Now that would be interesting.

I've never bought or used Ren wax, based upon many threads and reviews here that say it is best for museum pieces, but not as well suited as other waxes for severe weather protection. I've had good success with good old Johnson's Paste Wax, but as Greg notes, it may leave a bit of haze with heavier applications, if it is not completely buffed off. Another wax I occasionally use is Collinite Insulator Wax

https://nationalsupplydirect.com/collini...AiABEgL4_vD_BwE

This stuff must be good for all weather conditions because it is used by utility companies to protect high voltage insulators from surface contaminants that may cause arcing or explosive failures. Insulators are not cleaned and waxed every month, and they are continually exposed to every type of weather, so power companies found a product that lasts a long time and does a good job. Only thing is, despite what they say, it does take a bit more effort to buff off to a nice shine than Johnsons.

Mother’s Carnuba paste wax is absolutely outstanding. No silicones and easily polished. Made for automobiles and commonly found in auto supply stores. It is the real deal.

If for automotive use, it may have an abrasive in it.
A relative of mine polished the paint off a car using paste wax, probably Johnson, over the course of a few years, by obsessive applications.

No, no abrasives. Just carnuba.