Advice: I mixed up some alkanet root in linseed oil and the oil has turned a blood-like, semi translucent color. I tried a little on a piece of scrap to see and learn about the process but i think i am not applying it correctly. should i thin the oil with mineral spirts so it penetrates and absorbs like minwax stain or should i must keep rubbing it in coat after coat. it does not seem to penetrate, although the color has deepened with each coating. it takes several days to dry or should i not let it set before applying? the learning curve is steep but this is invaluable eexperience..

thanks for any advice

John

I use root powder in boiled linseed oil and really put it on thick letting the wood take in as much as it likes, wipes off any excess at the end of the day. How much to put on is personal. I use Daly's Seafin on top to harden the Linseed. Works great!

I mix with mineral spirits apply to stock let it soak in and remove excess it's for coloring not filling the pores in, depending on the wood and the color you want multiple application may be needed

Traditional stock finishers "Red Oil" is chopped Alkanet Root left to soak in Linseed Oil for up to eighteen months to attain that unique smell and deep colour. It is best applied to the stock by putting a small pool of oil in the palm of one hand and applying it, then rubbing it in with both hands. Leave to soak in for about an hour then remove any excess with a cloth, repeat after a couple of days until you obtain the colour you require. I have always found that Alkanet root in oil gives a richer and warmer colour than Alkanet root in Turpentine or spirit.

What do you all use as a medium for your stains to get good penetration of stain into the wood? One of my issues is that quite often the finish will re-emulsify the stain, with potential unevenness, and also “burn thru” when rubbing out.

Many finishes utilize mineral spirits as a thinner/solvent, which I find cause the above issue with mineral spirit/oil based stains.

Water based stains can/will raise the grain.

Alcohol based stains?

Others?

Generically, pigment type stains sit on the surface. I think, if a wood surface can absorb a stain, it probably needs to be in the “dye” category. I suspect though, if someone wants to shade match, a stain, of either type, would likely be used on the surface and subject to being cut through. It probably does’t look too good on a stock, it’s certainly disappointing on a table top.

Craigd. Usually using traditional Brit type of stock finish colour transfer from the base colour to the finish is not a problem because each is fully compatible with the other. Saying that it is not a perfect world so whenever I used Oil or water based stains, after allowing the stain to truly dry I use a trick borrowed from a furniture restorer. To isolate the stain in the wood from the top coat with a flash coat of Clear( sometimes known as white French Polish) or Garnet French Polish before applying the finish.

many thanks all.

I think the idea of thinning the alkanet/lindseed is that it soaks in the the wood quicker.i use one third mineral spirits two thirds lindseed oil I have gotten really nice color this was recommended by a friend that had more experience then me so that's what I use nice post by the way.

Here is the way I learned from a well known smith in CT.
Heat the oil until it is almost uncomfortable to handle.
heat the stock as well. Slop on the aklcanet root until
the entire stock is covered and hang it in a dry area for a day. the wood will absorb the oil and become dry in some areas. Repeat the process until the wood won't soak up anymore. Then rub it off with whatever means you prefer. The wood will be an even toned warm reddish color and the grain will be darker. let it dry for a week and apply the finish.

I use the above method.

I make my alkanet root by heating up linseed oil and dumping shredded root in it - the heat will pull all the pigment from the root and colour the oil.

Allow the oil to cool.

With your stock well prepped apply the alkanet root oil generously heating it with a heat gun till the stock is warm all over leave the soaking stock to stand, periodically topping up the oil as it soaks in. Once your happy with the colour allow the stock to stand for several days. Once happy begin oil finishing.
you will find even very light woods can be turned very dark and will drink up an inconceivable amount of this oil when hot, keep your heat gun on a low setting so as not to burn the wood.

If you must stain i like to use a water based stain. Apply till the finished product is darker than you really want it. Apply your red oil and some of the stain will leach back out. Once your red oil has had time to soak in and dry then apply your finishing oil, on stained pieces instead of building up very fine coats i apply finishing oil heavily, not worrying about marks or runs, when it is tacky and some places have soaked up the finish apply again, untill the wood will not absorb any oil and its sitting heavily on the surface, leave for a few days to allow the oil to harden. Cut back with fine paper lubricated with oil such as 800 or 1000 grit. once the surface is smooth and level then rub out a few top coats, it tends to be poorer grade wood that requires staining with more open grain so this helps quickly fill the grain as apposed to fine coats rubbed off with rottenstone.

I may have to give heating the stock a go. I have always applied the red oil at room temp and have been happy with the results but I like to try new things as well.

The German stockmakers I knew(not many) Soaked the stocks( if they intended to color them) in a "tank"( looked like a big tray) of oil with the pigment, until it took up all the oil it wanted, then hung it over the tank to drain. This seems to be less labor intensive while doing the same thing. It still took time, maybe the heating idea would help that.
Mike

I feel that the method of saturating the stock in Red Oil goes along the path of the colour you end up with is not under your control. Applying it coat after coat lets you decide on the finished depth of colour rather than in the lap of the gods.

Damascus,
If you are the one doing the work, I believe you are the one that should decide how to do it.
Mike

Der Ami. I thought this forum was a place for exchange of information and ideas. Why did you not post your view at the beginning? or is it just trying to be smart at my expense, and only your thoughts are the ones that count or carry any valued weight. If every person doing some form of work or art where not open to other peoples Ideas and thoughts the human race would still be walking around in animal skins and eating raw meat.

I might know of a piece of wood you could try that on...

I wonder if the heating is really about the cooling that comes afterwards and if the oils might be sucked as the stock cools and the air in the stock contracts.

Damascus,
I suggest you read my comment again. I only said if you are doing the work, do what you think is best, not what I observed someone else doing. NO I was not being Smart at your expense, I think the misunderstanding came about because of differences between "Southern English" and "English English".
Mike

Here's an article from Diggory Haddoke's website. Might be helpful in your stock refinishing ventures:

https://www.vintageguns.co.uk/magazine/making-oils-for-stock-finishing

The sticky thread of Damascus's finishing process is also definitely worth a close read

https://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=415289#Post415289