This suggestion may be obvious to many, but I've never seen it discussed. On internal stock repairs fiber glass cloth may allow stronger fixes than epoxy alone. It's available in thin sheets that, because they're loosely woven, can conform to quite varied contours. When you have limited space to work with, cloth may give a stronger fix.

Hi i have used it on shotgun forends
Glue the crack then cut a groove across the crack
and lay in the matt and coat with epoxy
Never had one come back
Sydney

You can put me down as very traditional, I prefer to use slow set epoxy and a Brass staple across a crack after closing it. Using this long standing method I find they do not come back for a second fix.

Hi i m sure that method would work just fine
The ones i fixed were the rear of shotgun forend like Franchi
trap guns
The wood is very thin and the staple would
be very close to going through the wood
I could use a 1 x 3/4 patch of glass mat x 1/16 thick
Sydney

Or just go full metal jacket...

I like a stainless or brass nut and bolt dropped into a butterfly mortice, filled with epoxy - if the crack will allow that under the metal.

Fiber Glass does not have the strength in thin patches or sections. This is what I use a little more traditional but will far out perform fiber fiberglass in every way. Stainless Steel mesh or Brass mesh it can be purchased in many different sizes. The mesh in the photograph is Stainless Steel it holds the Epoxy well and can be stretched to shape and of course stronger than the wood.

I once owned a 1969 Chevy 1/2 ton pick-up with a step-side bed, that rusted out pretty badly. The bed was especially bad, and when I was done with it, it had more fiberglass and epoxy than a boat or a Corvette. The rear fenders actually both fell off at different times, and I used fiberglass cloth and epoxy to glue them back on. A little sanding and paint had her looking good again.

It was really great stuff that made a lasting repair. I drove that truck for 7 years and then sold it, with 186,000 miles on the odometer, for twice what I had paid for it. It was unusual that a truck of that vintage, with that many miles, still didn't burn oil, and had never been overhauled. Three guys were waiting for me when I came home, and I sold it to the first in line for my asking price. The guy didn't even want to take it for a test drive or hear it run. I shoulda' asked more for it, I guess.

That bubba repair was fine for a rusted out old work truck. For walnut gun stocks, I prefer Titebond II wood glue and more traditional methods.

damascus, I'm glad to learn about the metal meshes. Keith, helpful as ever. Do you need a bean bag chair for your mother's garage?