I did a simple search and came up empty. Can someone direct me to info or video on how a cut a rolled edge triggerguard and the appropriate tools used. Seems it would be easier to complete prior to bending. Thanks.

In the past they could be purchased from NECG but the last time I tried they no longer stocked them. The project could be approached from several different directions depending upon tools you have available. The easiest way would likely be to Tig a small bead to an existing trigger guard and work it with files and stones. You could also cut one from a thick piece of bar stock and file away what is not needed. Let us know what you decide.

The project I am working on is actually a modified Ruger #3 lever that would employ the same or similar filing up- hench the reason I asked. I believe I will start with mold makers rifflers and files to get the undercut I am looking for.

Trigger guard rolled edge simple to do though only when you know the trick of how to add an after market one. Though I must say not a very common request these days.
you will require either 3.5mm or 4mm thick walled or any other size you think fit, steel tubing is obtainable on this side of the pond from model builder suppliers.
Some fine DRY* sand.
Piece of flat board to accommodate the size of the trigger guard bow and then some.
Junior hacksaw blade, plus a piece of wood to have as a handle for a very short piece of the hacksaw blade,
Fast set Epoxy adhesive.
The how to >>>
Start with a length of tubing about three times the length of the bow, heat red hot and allow to cool slowly to soften the metal. put a blob of Epoxy on one end of the tube to seal it then fill the tube with sand making sure that it has no gaps then seal the open end with Epoxy.
Now bend to shape using the trigger guard as a first time former work slowly using only your fingers metal tools put dents and other marks on the tube. Work the tube until you have the correct size so it follows the edge shape of the guard.
Remove the sand then stick the tube on to the flat board so it is held firmly. Now for the blood sweat and tears part of the whole project, start by fixing a very short length of hacksaw blade into a handle, start to cut a slot along the length of tubing that is the bow then make wider with a needle file if necessary. I have also used a Dremel type of tool with a miniature cutting disk though you must make the disk as small as practical and this method work's really fast. Adjust the slot and the tubes length so that it will slide on to the side of the trigger guard edge.
Now you can go two ways to fix your rolled edge to the guard.
1 Fill the tube with Epoxy adhesive and place in position using some method to hold it in place. You must fill the tube with Epoxy otherwise it will dent easily it needs to be solid.
2 Soft solder the tube to the trigger guard making sure that the tube is filled with solder, a pencil helps in cleaning up the guard after soldering.
** You can make the ends of the tube neater by squeezing the ends gently with a pair of pliers to make them more rounded while there is still sand in the tube, but you do have to have the length right.

Thanks Damascus. Sounds like quite a bit of effort for a little appeal.

Doesn't CSMC still offer these in the white?

Galazans (CSMC) shows forged TG's in straight and PG. Both plain edge and rolled edge
Click on the 'Choose Option' box for the selections.

https://connecticutshotgun.co/forged-trigger-guards/

Plain edge either style $65
Rolled edge " " $90

Midway also lists them, but as out of stock till Fed 2021 IIRC.

There's still work ahead of you in finishing up one of these, but better than starting from scratch if the basic shape fits your project.
Often you have no choice but to build from scratch.

Once again we have a post that asks questions with out giving detail as to what the poster is talking about .If we are talking double guns then what you ask is not a practical as a rolled edged guard is made when the guard is filed up from its forging or construction. An earlier post have suggested a solution but personally I think this would look very strange .
The average guard in finished state is not heavy enough to do much to ,although some lower grade guns do tend to have thicker bows so it may just be possible to form some sort of bead .
With modern welding it should be feasible to have a bead welded to the guard that can then be filed up to the correct profile .
It will depend on the gun and why you want it and how you want it to look when finished .

However to answer your original question , files and some ability are all you need .

Ouch!!! Ability only comes with knowledge and of course practice no one person is born with either. Ability to read between the questioner's lines is an ability a lot of folks have here. Now for a little free knowledge, to file internal curves you will require a set of double ended "Riflers files" to get into those hard to get curvy places.
I have long ago come to the conclusion that keeping knowledge and taking it to your grave without passing it on is doing this world a disservice. We have lost enough knowledge from the past, I am sure all my apprentices would whole heartily agree because I filled their heads with it until it hurt, making each well rounded and knowledgeable Engineer.
Finally an aftermarket accessory will never have the looks of a factory made and fitted item, I am sure many care owners will vouch for that, but if you really want that item there is nothing wrong with the next best thing.

'and the appropriate tools used.' This. Sorry Gunman but don't think a flat bastard or mill file would be appropriate. It was a simple question. Thanks Damascus that is what I was looking for.

Reminded me of this passage from the article "Good Fellowship" by Charles Heyward:

"Among craftsmen, especially, a spirit of good fellowship makes all the difference. Modern conditions do not always make it easy. Wherever there is a feeling of in­security a man may easily become dis­trustful of his fellows, guarding his know­ledge with the feeling that it is the one thing he has to arm him against the world. But hoarded knowledge can never be as productive as knowledge which is shared. It is not the man who warns off enquirers with a mutter of “trade secrets” and a “please-keep-off-the-grass” expression who will keep abreast of the times, but the man who will readily exchange experiences, discuss, and, when need be, give guidance to others. It is remarkable, when one comes to think of it, the number of ideas which are generated in conversation. A trades­man can easily, in answering the questions of the novice, be brought to consider for the first time the whys and wherefores of using certain processes. Such was the trade custom, but why? Or, swopping experiences with another old hand, he gets to know of other methods as sound, maybe sounder, than his own. But he has to give as well as take. There has to be fellowship, even in the generation of ideas."

from:
https://lostartpress.com/products/honest-labour-the-charles-h-hayward-years

Obviously the correct files need to be used as will the correct emery cloth . I had upward of 30 files on my bench so it is a matter of using the right ones for any work .Last time I filed a bead on a guard I started with a 6" 3 square .