For screws and pins: where do you all get blanks for threading, indexing and slotting? Most of what I see online doesn't seem to have enough excess on the head for the process.

I have gotten some from Trackofthewolf.com, but that was some time ago.

the impetus for my question is that I want to change a grip cap screw from a Philips to a slotted screw. so I really need a wood screw with a head that I can slot.

but I'm also interested in a source for pins / machine screw blanks that could be used to make pins. I figure that machine screw could be made easily enough with a piece of drill rod, but it seems like there is probably a way to bypass making them completely getting scratch.

I have gotten machine screw blanks from Brownells in the past but Numrich Arms (do a search for Screw Assortment) sells a variety of both wood and machine screws in bulk (by weight) quite reasonably....
WBLDon

A worthy cause, indeed. Would you not need a wood screw for this purpose?

https://connecticutshotgun.co/0-468-wood-gun-screw/

https://connecticutshotgun.co/0-748-wood-gun-screw/

SRH

That is exactly what I need. Incredible how many ways I searched for that using Google and I could not find it.

Thank you.

You couldn't find a slotted wood screw at Track of the Wolf? Here are a few. Would a #10 x 1", slotted, oval head not get the job done? https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/855/3

What size do you want?

Philips are, indeed the bain of modern guns. As is the ubiquity of plated screws.

You might find something here
https://www.americanfastener.com/wood-screws/

And possibly here
https://www.blacksmithbolt.com/store/c/25-Screws.aspx

The knowledge on this site never fails to amaze.

I found slotted screws but what I wanted was something with an oversized head that I could use to index and slot myself. All the ones I could find, including at Brownells, Numrich, TOTW, etc, didnt have enough head material for the process. In fact, the one from csmc doesnt have quite as much head to work with as I thought at first. But I think I can make do.


I've only got one screw to do, but I'm thinking that to get it perfectly lined up, I'll need to cut the slot myself. I guess I would always try a slotted screw and see if I get lucky with the alignment, but the truth is that I am interested in learning the process anyway, and this seems like a low risk project to try it on.

I want the screw slot to be at least as straight as this (just the example I found online):


Another option would be a brass threaded insert into the wood with a machine screw. At least it would be easier to find a blank that way, I think.

I do the inserts all the time. It is particularly nice on rifles that have multiple buttplates for different applications. I tend to avoid the brass threaded inserts now and just make them myself from a larger lag screw or bolt.

But now that I see where you are going, I think you could consider either buying a half dozen from Track for $0.30 each and then hope to get lucky or weld one shut and recut it as needed.

That's a good idea. ar 30 cents I could afford a few that didn't work.

If your wood screws turns just past the proper indexing point you can put some accrglass in the hole and stop the screw at 11 o'clock, once the epoxy hardens you can tighten it to the proper position. Another method that works well at times is to relive the counter bore in the grip cap a bit to get your proper indexing point. I just used that method to time the buttplate screws on Brent's Greener and it worked very well, a 60 degree cpounter sink is handy for such a job. As for wood screws, I make them on a lathe using coarse dies, works slick and you just index the slot as needed like on any machine screw.

Steve, if you are willing, could you explain your method of making wood screws with a coarse die on your lathe. Sounds like an interesting method. I’ve tried cutting them, like any threading operation, without much luck on a lathe. Since it has never worked I continue buying the mass produced screws but hate the slot widths. Thanks, Bob

Certainly Bob,
I use 1018 for most screws and then case harden them. I first turn the whole diameter to just a touch larger than I want the head diameter to be, then turn the body and file a point on the shaft. I have a large selection of dies, speciality thread pitches can be purchased here: https://www.victornet.com/productpa...vzre37gIVTRitBh2zzgSHEAAYASAAEgIbRvD_BwE

I then thread the shaft and cut the proper angle on the head, usually 60 degrees on British screws, the blank is then parted off leaving enough materiel for a slave screw slot. The new screw is the fit up and the proper indexing postion(best to stop a bit shy and final fit to get it perfect) is marked and the cut on the mill using a slotting saw. The screw can then be put back in the lathe (a shop made threaded collect shines here), cut to the correct length and domed and polished.

Lots of work in properly making a new screw but a regular occurance in my shop.
Steve

You could always relieve the back side of the head.

I like 12l14 (screw stock) for making screws, machines beautifully and case hardens nicely

Thanks Steve and Mike. I’m going to try the die. Either metal works for me but have a couple tons of 1018 and not much 12L14, not that buying either is big deal for screw! Screws are lots of work but in the end worth it. Thanks for info Steve it’s appreciated. Bob