Hey guys,
So I’m not sure what’s going on, it’s a true oil finish that’s been knocked down flat, but for some reason I’m getting what looks like scratches when you touch it but you can rub them out just by wiping. It’s not in one area it the whole stock. What is going on? Is there anyway to correct this?


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Put a couple drops of Tru-Oil on your hands and rub it out again.
Mike

Can't help with the finish though is sounds like there is an undercoat that the Tru Oil can't hang on to.

But what's up with that checkering? It looks really interesting. Any more pics?

Can't help with the finish though is sounds like there is an undercoat that the Tru Oil can't hang on to.

But what's up with that checkering? It looks really interesting. Any more pics?

Correct me if I'm wrong... I am assuming this is a recently applied Birchwood Casey Tru Oil finish.

If so, I'd like to know if the finish seems even a bit soft or tacky, and how long ago it was applied. I had something similar happen years ago with a GB Linspeed finish. I believe I got a bottle from a batch that probably did not have near enough dryer. I ended up rubbing it all off with thinner, and applying a different finish which hardened normally.

That was the last time I used Linspeed, and it has also been quite a while since I used Tru Oil too. There are better wood finishing products that also cost less per ounce. We have had several threads here discussing the merits and characteristics of various stock finishing products. I'm not saying that Tru Oil cannot give you a nice looking finish, but if it has failed, you might want to move on to something else.

Agreed. By the pics I'd advise "just keep going".

This can be a number of things but more than likely it is either oil in the woods surface before you applied your True Oil this does prevent the finishing oil from truly curing, or you have not left the first coat to dry and properly cure. As you are only at the beginning of re finishing I would be tempted to remove the finish that is on the stock with a solvent. Then let the solvent evaporate leave the stock over night then re apply the true Oil letting the first coat fully cure before applying any further coats. You could keep going and apply more and hope the dryers in the proceeding coats will improve matters though you can never be sure.

Keith, yes the stock was stripped to bare wood, one coat of linseed oil then 4 coats of truoil dried, then knocked down once the pores were filled, one coat on top then knocked down to remove the “shine/glare” all this took about two weeks. No tackiness, or grippy feeling smooth as butter. I’ve done this process before, this was the first time I got these what I call scratches that you can just rub out with your finger. I used true oil as that is what the manufacturer suggested to use. I think Damascus is on to it with the linseed oil not setting before I applied the trueoil

Hey Brent

Nothing special some call it the stupidest gun ever made, I love it, lightweight and totally customizable, I can fit it for me and five minutes later fit it to my son who shoots left handed. I will say they really pooched it with that built in pad on the comb, I do not like that at all.

Just skip the initial coat of plain Linseed oil.
That takes quite a while to dry.,,if ever.

TruOil is just a Linseed Oil based Varnish anyway. It has driers in it along with
(Likely) synthetic resins that make it a varnish rather than just an oil. so it has something to fill the surface pores

Personally I've never liked the stuff as it never dried well. I gave up on it decades ago. Linspeed also.
But for some reason others have good luck with them.
The stuff I had only dried in the orig containers.

I'd wipe the surface down with mineral spirits , let it dry a week , bloc sand it with 800 or 1000 grit to even it back up. Then go back to building up the finish with what ever you think will dry.

Some years ago I had a stock that just seemed not to dry properly. At the suggestion of a gunsmith friend I wiped the stock down with Japan Drier. That quickly took care of the problem.

You rarely ever hear about Japan drier anymore. Im not sure why either…to me its almost required if your using a linseed or tung based finish.
I always add a few drops of Japan Drier when making up a new batch of oil. It really does help the finish dry out.
Back in the day when I used tru-oil….I thought it helped to thin it out a bit using gum turpentine or mineral spirits. I prefer the gum turpentine because I like the smell.

Japan drier is still widely used in the wood finishing industry to speed up drying times. I bought a pint at a local Sherwin Williams store several years ago, and it is available from a number of online retailers and woodworking supply companies such as Rockler. Driers are also used a lot by artists to speed up the drying time of their oil paints. There are also other types of chemical paint and finish dryers such as cobalt and manganese dryer.

I don't normally recommend wiping on a coat of Japan dryer when I hear about a wood finish curing problem, because it is very easy to use too much, and create a condition where the finish becomes too hard and brittle. In normal use with oil based wood finishes, you would typically start by adding only a few drops of Japan dryer to a full quart, and gradually add more if necessary. The pint of Japan dryerI bought should last many years.

That is why I suggested removing the present finish with a solvent, and then applying a new finish that would harden properly. I would now like to grill Mr. RARiddell under hot lights about why he forgot to tell us in his first post about the initial coat of linseed oil that was applied to the stock prior to using four coats of Tru Oil. That trivial little bit of information would have provided us a very important clue as to why the finish failed. I still feel the best course of action would be to remove the present finish, because it may otherwise be a months long problem to get that first coat linseed oil to cure properly. Especially now that it is underneath four coats of Tru Oil.

Does anyone use cobalt dryer we used it in oil base printing ink it does smell like Japan dryer and it produced a hard shine finish

Actually, almost all of what we call Japan Dryer is made with cobalt compounds. Most chemical driers are composed of some heavy metal salt or compound, with a thinner like naphtha. Some of these heavy metal compounds are toxic too.

The Japan Dryer you buy is about 97% thinner. In spite of being that diluted, it is still very potent stuff, and a little goes a long way. As I said earlier, using too much is not a good thing. Here's a table that shows the characteristics of various chemical driers:

Most of the DIY OTC Japan Drier available now sport a 'Lead Free' lable.
Everyone likes lead free and many people are aware that the original drier used a lead metalic salt in it's make up.
So they feel comfortable not brushing on a layer of lead (in their mind) on their refinished coffee table project.

Synthetic Driers is another term often used in labeling them as w/a substitute for the lead.

But Japan Driers also used Cobalt and Manganese salts.
Some of the happy face Lead Free products label still contain Cobalt, especially. MSDS reveals a lot.
Not as bad for you I guess at this point. You don't self illumintate if using same.

The good old stuff with lead, cobalt and even both in the same bottle is still available. Usually from Artist Supply places on-line.
Artist oil brush painters still use it to make their work dry in a reasonable time.
Small bottles, that last forever proudly labeled containing the Lead and/or with Cobalt & Manganese.

The old 2gal tin(ned) can I have of J/Drier will last 'several lifetimes. Probably that quantity was from the oilbase house and barn painting days.
IIRC the recipe was one shot glass of J/Drier to a gal of paint
I hated painting a house...

I scraped, prepped, and painted my Grandmother's two story house twice before we replaced the windows and installed vinyl siding. Also prepped and painted windows, porches, and the gable ends of my Dad's two story brick house. Then, like a fool, I used clear cedar siding on parts of my house, which needs periodic staining. House painting is indeed no fun! Kutter's remark reminds me of this joke:

A businessman was sitting alone at the bar of a fancy casino in Las Vegas. A gorgeous one-thousand dollar a night hooker came over, sat next to him, and whispered into his ear.

She said, "Tonight is your lucky night. Tonight, and tonight only, I will do absolutely anything you want for only $100.00. I will do anything in your wildest dreams and fantasies. But there are two conditions. You must pay me the $100.00 up front. And you must tell me what you want in three words or less."

The guy jumped off his barstool with great excitement. He nearly broke his own arm grabbing his wallet. He pulled out two $50.00 bills and pressed them into her hand. Then he breathlessly made his three word request saying... "Paint my house!!!"