Just acquired this used Skeets gauge. A couple of questions. One, can I remove and replace the dial micrometer with one of newer higher quality? If yes can i simply pull the dial out and insert a new one?Two, how do I go about calibration? The unit came with a piece of what appears to be pvc pipe. Not certain. Any help on use appreciated.

You need a ring gage for calibrating it, they come with a .600" ring, something similar to this:

https://www.zoro.com/mitutoyo-ring-...zgJFEAQYAyABEgJchPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You can replace the dial indicator with another.

Why would you have need to replace the gauge? Is it faulty or is there something about it that you just don't like? I've had two Skeet's gauges for many years and have never seen the need to replace anything on them. Just curious.

I suspect that slice of white pipe is a storage and/or transport protector for the measuring head. I'd certainly not rely on it for calibration.

I have a two head model that I purchased new from Brownell's years ago. It came with the tool, two PVX protectors and two blued steel calibration rings. One is .700 and one is .600. With those two it will measure from 28 ga to a standard 10 ga (barely). Chambers only go through 12. I tried the PVC tubes and they are not even close to calibration. After years of use, then only problem is that one of the heads tends to slip loose under use so I stick on a piece of tape. When I get a chance I intend to put a set screw through the brass mount to get rid of depending on the slip fit. The small dial on the face of the main indicator is important to keep in order to correctly read the tenths since the dial runs over several revelations across the gauges. I have never found a need to change or remove it, so don't know exactly how the dial is attached. If you elect to change it be sure you use a multirevolution dial indicator. Anyone with a lathe should be able to make a calibration gauge. The stock ones are more of a tube form; smaller in OD and longer. The longer form is much easier to use in practice. It could be made from any piece of appropriate tubing and bored to ID.

I have always thought that white ring, that is used for transport and storage, as Fudd said, was made of ceramic. I'll look a bit closer at it. I'm still curious as to why the OP wants to replace the gauge, unless it's faulty.


So, I am also wondering, did Dean Harris at Skeet's Gun Shop, in Oklahoma, make the Skeet's Bore Gauges ? I sure would love to have a tiny one to use on .410s.

Good luck with the .410 gauge.

My solution to the .410 bore choke gauge situation is to use a "small hole gauge" and a micrometer. Both can be found on the internet for short money. Way cheaper than another bore micrometer. Maybe Stan will tell us what he uses to measure his .410 chokes.

I have a 3 decade old Skeet's Bore Gauge. The sizing ring is .700" diameter. That ring fits somewhat loosely on the end of the gauge, so the smaller plastic ring was supplied to keep the sizing ring from falling off of the gauge when carrying it.

That's exactly what I use, Bill. A .410 Skeet's Bore Gauge sure would be nice, though.

Thank you for your replies. I have changed out the dial indicator for another higher-end digital indicator that I have as surplus. Indicator is a friction fit and pulls out quite easily. As this unit did not come with the calibration ring I have used a quality choke tube of known diameter +0.700 for calibration. This appears to work quite satisfactorily.

Be super careful in the calibration if the .700 portion of the choke is not a flat section. Measuring the tip of the choke is very ticklish. Gettin the round balls of the gauge exactly aligned with the end of a choke taper can make you cry sometimes. Doing that for calibration will be delicate since the rate of change of the reading is very high there.

Just spend the money and buy a set of real calibration rings. If you know of a precision machine shop close by, ask them to make you a set of calibration rings.

https://100straight-com.3dcartstores.com/Single-Ga-Ring-Only_p_32.html

I think most of us can figure out whether the bore or choke we are measuring is round or not. Your measuring ring can be proven accurate by comparing with any known bore. TIRS.

I have a 100straight Choke & Barrel Micrometer, 4 Gauge Regular Set. They work well, even in the .410. I bought mine off EBay for less than half the retail price. Need to upgrade to a digital gauge for ease of use.

I had bought one on eBay many years ago and it wasn't working correctly as sometimes the dial would stick. I called and talked to Dean and he said send it to him. He had been making a longer version that was 16" long and I asked if he could fix mine and add the new 16" rod. When I got it back I swear it was a brand new one, new dial indicator, long 16" aluminum rod. I forgot what he charged me but it was very, very reasonable.
I have since made a wooden case and also made a .600 ring for 16 gauge. I tried making a head, not so easy as the holes for the ball bearings have to be the same as the diameter of the balls. Maybe I'll try again and this time I will use a piece of scrap aluminum.

Bill is right about using a small bore gage, I have a set when from long ago that goes to 1/2". Better using this than a snap-gage.

The 2 head gauge I purchased through Brownells came in a box that had provisions for storing the calibration rings and the second head and storage ring. The storage and calibration rings are very close in size. The calibration rings were normally kept in the box since you generally need them only when switching heads. I have always presumed that the protective rings were intended to store the unit with the balls off the seats to prevent sticking and rough action.

If you ever manage to "disassemble" one of the heads, you have a tedious job ahead. With the way the balls and actuator fit into the head, the only way I could get it back together properly was use grease applied with a toothpick to hold the balls in place. This followed by insterting the polished balls and rod. Not something I ever want to do again.