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Posted By: Brian Springfield Sporting rifle Who is the maker??? - 03/23/11 12:10 AM
Picked this up at a hsow this weekend.
1903 Springfield SN 460876
24” barrel SA 5-11 barrel code
13 ¾” LOP
Weight 7 lbs 11 oz.
Lyman 48 Receiver sight graduated to 150.
Steel trap buttplate.











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Nice inletting, I can't help but I can say that.
The centerline in the checkering looks like those things that are sometimes the trademarks of a particular builder.
Thanks for sharing.
Should turn out nice with the application of some skilled and sympathatic attention. How's the bore?
You have my attention!

Would you please pull it out of the wood and take a picture or two of the inletting.

Also a shot from the top of the receiver ring and the grip cap.

Is this a Springfield not Rock-Island?
I can't help you with the maker, but you did good. Looks like very good work. IS that some white paint spilled on the forend?

John
paint on the wood, yes.
I will be pulling it out of the wood as soon as I get some time. I will take more photos.
I found it nestled in between some old SMLE's and Mosin Nagnts in a dealers rack when I was cruising aoround after I was set up.
I would tell you what I paid but you would not believe. (it wasnt very expensive!!!)
Is the grip cracked and repaired or is that a scratch. The inletting is outstanding, at least on the areas shown in the pictures.
Beat-up and broken, but a Very Nice Rifle underneath!
Look foreward to more discoveries about this one.
(In my experience abotu 78% of all old guns have white or beige paint spilled on them.)

BTW: Michael has posted photos of 25 between the wars custom rifles (23 Springfields!) on my web site. Just photos to give the flavor, but more to come!
I will be adding more commentary later today... Check it out!
Thats a crack through the grip. I cleaned up the bluing with 0000 steel wool and breakfree. looks much better than I thought. No need to reblue. No markings of any kind. I will post inletting photos soon.
What would be your recommendation for the actual finish for the wood?

Once I strip and clean up, should I stain or just use a wet sanded finish and go for parital filled pores and just look of oil?
If it were mine I would clean the whole stock with nothing but raw linseed oil and 0000 steel wool. Then sit back and reevaluate what it looks like.

I understand that you will have to refinish the repaired part but possibly not the entire rifle?

Good news that the metal is not going to have to be redone, sometimes it looks a lot worse than it is.

PS: Is there any checkering on the underside of the bolt?
Michael: Who is your source for Raw Linseed Oil?
I'm with Michael, no way I'd strip and refinish that stock. Just some linseed and very moderate use of steel wood. Look at how clean and crisp the forend checkering is, you will loose this if you refinish. Howards makes a product called restor-a-finish which I have used with very good results on some pretty bad stocks. You might be amazed what you can do with the finish that is on the rifle.

John
Originally Posted By: gasgunner
I'm with Michael, no way I'd strip and refinish that stock. Just some linseed and very moderate use of steel wood. Look at how clean and crisp the forend checkering is, you will loose this if you refinish. Howards makes a product called restor-a-finish which I have used with very good results on some pretty bad stocks. You might be amazed what you can do with the finish that is on the rifle.

John


That is interesting stuff. I have seen it, or something very similar at a local Ace Hardware. But how durable is this for something like a hunting rifle?

Brent
Be aware tha linseed oil takes forever to dry in typical humid weather that we have in the US.you will need a drying cabinet and/or add some japan dryer to the linseed oil.I have a tackle box drying now that has been drying for the last 2 months and is still a bit tacky. I used linseed oil mixed with turpentine 50/50 over vinegar paint.I may have put on too thick a coat though.You can't beat the "look" for a vintage item and that is why I use it. Easy to repair too.
I buy my raw linseed oil at the artist supply store.

We do not care if it dries or not, that is not what is needed now. The stock needs to be cleaned with the oil so it does not degrade the underlining finish. Just slop it on until it drips off then use the oil as it were soap and water, scrub the wood down with the 0000 steel wool. Then wipe off all the oil off with a dry clean rag.
Originally Posted By: BrentD
Originally Posted By: gasgunner
I'm with Michael, no way I'd strip and refinish that stock. Just some linseed and very moderate use of steel wood. Look at how clean and crisp the forend checkering is, you will loose this if you refinish. Howards makes a product called restor-a-finish which I have used with very good results on some pretty bad stocks. You might be amazed what you can do with the finish that is on the rifle.

John


That is interesting stuff. I have seen it, or something very similar at a local Ace Hardware. But how durable is this for something like a hunting rifle?

Brent


The original oil finish has protected the wood for the last 80 or so odd years, and will likely last another 100. I think what we are trying to do is preserve as much of that original finish as we possible can. A refinish will always be a refinish regardless of how well it is done. You have a lot of original finish left on that rifle, way to much in my opinion to strip and refinish it. I think if you oil it well, carefully remove the paint splotches, and give it a rub down every few months, you will be surprised at what you will end up with.

John
yes, there isn't anything better than linseed oil to use as a cleaner for pre=1940 finishes. I just cleaned a circa 1920 faux finished dresser that had been in a barn for the last 50 years and it came out really nice. I soaked in the linseed oil and then wet sanded with 400 grit paper and wiped off the excess and I am amazed how good it looks. I really didn't think it would work given the condition of the finish.I probably would have skipped the sandpaper if it had been a rare antique and just used burlap or some other course cloth that didn't leave lint behind.The smell stays for awhile and may bother some but I like it.
More photos












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Brian,

Thanks for the new pictures.

My first impression was the rifle came out of the Wundhammer shop. I've only seen that buttplate on a Wundhammer, the schnabel and layout is a lot like his work.

But it all ends there, the checkering and checkering layout is not his work and the stock is way to thick. You can see this where the Lyman 48 had to be inletted into the stock.

The inletting is not his and there is way to much wood removed for whatever reason. Did the stock break because if the missing wood, Or was the wood removed in an attempt to repair the stock.

Ross King worked in his shop for sometime before he went on his own but the work does not look like his. I'll check my files because I remember that someone else worked for him for a while.

Regardless of who did the work it's well worth some effort to restore it. Good luck....MP


Wundhammer's Work,





Judging by the quality of the rest of the work, I'd say the original builder had enough experience to know better than to remove all that wood. My guess would be that someone at a later date removed a bunch of wood to put in an aftermarket trigger. This weakened the stock and facilitated the crack. I think I would be tempted to put some wood back in, maybe even with a crossbolt, then re-inlet for the trigger. Even with that, it probably is not going to be a rifle that you would want to shot a lot, at least not with heavy recoiling loads.

John
I would consider replacing most if not all of the missing wood and with some good epoxy should do the job.
I plan on doing some internal strengthening. will take some pics as I go. This one will be shot little and fondled a lot.
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