So here's my latest distraction, a Winchester 1885 single shot barreled action in caliber .32-40 with a number 4 barrel and close coupled triggers. ... probably was someone's target rifle long ago. The action has some rust which will clean up but I will lose all the traces of case color. The set triggers need a little tuning. The barrel has some roughness (pitting) on the inside that will polish out but the bore is perfect! Its like someone greased the bore and didn't store the rifle properly. The front sight and barrel sight were removed and it has traces of having a tang sight. Given the bore condition of this heavy barrel with a set trigger it is probably a "one hole-er".

To satisfy my curiosity I sent away for the historical letter. It reads as follows: Type: Rifle, Caliber: 32/40, Barrel Type: Octagon, Barrel Weight: #4, Barrel Length: 30 inches, Trigger: Set; Sights: Midrange and Wind gauge, No level; Shipped from warehouse on September 17,1895. No details on the wood or buttplate.

So ... what would you do? Bring it back to original configuration? Build a custom rifle on the action and sell the barrel? ...?

Nice! I would swap with a guy in Iowa, the trigger bar. You don't need no stinking CDST, when simple single trigger is so much simpler!

Seriously, I would not chase the barrel much unless you really like the caliber and that particular chamber and throat. I'd bend the tang (with super care) and make it a pistol grip. I'd put whatever caliber I happened to "need" into the barrel. Then I would restock with some high-contrast English walnut and case color the action.

Then I would kill something with it. Or shoot a match or three.

But that's just me.
Brent

Shoot it then decide what to do!

Bring it by and I'll see if I can loan you some wood. We can also look at the chamber and throat.

I most likley have everything but not sure I have a forend for a No.4 barrel, you don't need that to shoot it ;-).

Thanks Michael ... will check in with you on Friday or Saturday.

Bring it back to original configuration. Leave the set trigger as is,

... if anyone has original or Axtel reproduction Midrange Tang Sight and/or Front Wind Gauge sights for sale please let me know. ... cannot sight in a rifle without sights.

I'm with Don: that rifle is near enough to original to keep it original. Or sell it or trade it to somebody who wants an uncommon hiwall and get a rifle in a better hunting caliber if you want a hunting rifle.

It could be a great target rifle. Again.

(I truly long for the days when there was something like this in the "rusty/dusty wrecks" barrel in many gunshops. Where I found my .30-40!).

Joe, I have an almost identical rifle, but not a rusty relic, that my wife gave me as a college graduation present back in 1968. So your rifle is very special to me. That said, yours is a single purpose target rifle. If you like cast bullets and messing about with a 32-40, it is pretty neat. It's a little heavy for schuetzen, but only a little.

There is original wood available and there are lots of choices if you decide to go for a custom stock. My rifle came with a straight grip stock, no fancy wood, and a nickle-plated Swiss buttplate. But mainly that stays in the gun safe. For the range, my rifle has a butt stock for a Winder Musket. They fit right with no additional work needed. It is easier to use on the bench and the nicks & dings are not nearly so much of an issue.

I don't think there is any particular reason to go to great pains to get original sights. Back in the day, serious shooters changed sights around until they found whatever suited them. My rifle had no sights at all, not even dovetails. It was originally set up for a long telescope, maybe a Malcolm. Now it has a 12-X Unertl.

I am now shooting a Farrow with an original Winchester front sight and Axtel inserts. Farrow used Winchester front sights and the front sight on mine is original. Personally, I would not make any effort to get another. There are better sights available.

I would also say restore it. The pictures only show a light rusting that can probably be taken off without too much hand polishing. If there are any deep pits I'd suggest you get them Laser Welded. This method would put on a very fine weld bead that doesn't have a melted depression around it. It's not a cheap process, but is far better than TIG or MIG work. As the bore is very good, a light drawfiling or possibly a fine grit tape polishing on the barrel flats should clean that up nicely.

As the action was CC Hardened it should be annealed first and re cased later, it will make working on it far easier. There are plenty of folks who can supply part finished stocks in any wood qality your wallet (or wife) is happy with.

I don't know of any gunsmiths operating in Alaska today off the top of my head, but if you contact J.D.Steele on this Forum he may well be able to offer you some sound advice on your CCST problem. It may be that a good cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaning bath will solve the problem. They are remarkably efficient at cleaning up ingrained dirt and grease, even after cleaning by traditional solvents and bronze wire brushes. A nice winter project, get stuck in there. lol.

Harry

As said, the .32-40 is an excellent target round, but is also a good hunting round for White Tail Deer, and can be hand loaded to the power of the .30-30.
This rifle would make a good "deer stand" rifle.

Joe
Since your rifle is in pretty rough shape, I think it pretty much give you license to do whatever you want. I personally would return it to its original configuration.

I've had similar rifles and struggled with the same decisions you are facing. If it were mine, first I would evaluate the bore seriously. If the pitting you mention is more than you would like, I would consider having the barrel rebored to 33-40 (33-47) which was a common thing to do way back when. I would use Allan Seigrist to do the work. He has done two for me and they shoot exceptionally well. You mention that you could polish out the pits in the bore which I take to mean that they are very minor so maybe you could get along without reboring.

I would then send it to Russ Gent, Tijeras, NM to be cleaned up. I would have Russ color case harden the action and the parts that were that way originally. I would then have him rust blue the barrel and remaining parts.

You could then find some original wood for it or have Russ build stocks for it.
FWIW,
Phil

Amidst this chorus of congratulation let me point out that a barrel with some roughnesss on the inside can hardly be said to have a "perfect" bore.

I think that Joe meant to say pitting on the OUTSIDE.

John has the rifle to fix the triggers and I'm told the bore is perfect from end to end.

I think the plan is when we get shooting weather again I'll put some wood and sights on it. Joe can see how it shoots and go from there.

Yes, exactly. I still type with two fingers and I cannot keep up with what I am thinking. The bore is perfect and the pitting is on the outside. With MP's help we'll determine its accuracy when we thaw out.

I'd say you ought to put this rifle back as close to original as possible. Alter nothing that isn't necessary. You have a piece of history. I know. I wrote the book.