Having made a set of claw mounts from something resembling aircraft aluminum alloy, I began to wonder if that would resist bending when recoil forces were applied to the feet on the rear claw mount. Then I thought, with EDM reverse engineering, ANY kind of steel could be chosen, no matter how hardened. So, I got Roger over at Mercatech in Dallas to reproduce the rear mount from what I had to give him. WOW, what a job. This was done with tool steel, but if you had a chunk of heat treated D2 or any other material of choice EDM will cut it just as easily, which is one reason to consider it in the first place. I'm happy...Steve

BTW, if you hand them a steel set of rings to build from, you will save them time and you money==but you have to buy the rings if you don't have a set on hand. Mercatech would like to make gun parts for us all. I cannot say what any particular price will be. This project was one hundred dollars.

Thanks is well worth the it, I spent almost a month in my spare time filing à set of rings for my we lling so I could mount a Leupold close to the barrel.

Steve

I would like to hear more about the services that they offer

Mike

Mike, sorry it's been so long since I logged in. The services they provide are largely in duplicating parts, not engineering parts. If you have a part which could be duplicated in a better grade of steel, for example, I had originally fabricated a claw mount in aluminum alloy--then they can hand you that part in tool steel. Any part which can be accurately blueprinted on computer they can make as well. Your research will uncover more data without a doubt. Steve

I wish I had a set of mounts for my Steyr Mannlicher 1903. I'd have them duplicate them.

Depending upon whether your mounts were originally claw mounts, side mounts, leupold, or Redfield, they can be found or duplicated. I prefer the Redfield, but alter them for the 1903 rifle. You are probably aware that the flat for the rear base, slanted at an angle is LOWER than the front action ring (where it is inscribed for the caliber) as this is easily seen by placing the mounts there with tape temporarily. Some people make a shim to raise the height of the rear mount. I SAY...lower the front mount by radiusing the bottom--taking off just enough metal to level things out. But will the bolt handle clear if I do that, or will it be too low for the bolt to come all the way up, you ask. Glad you asked. The rear mount must be moved forward just enough for the bolt handle to raise BEHIND THE WINDAGE ADJUSTMENT SCREW. You may also have to slightly file the bottom of the area just behind the windage adjustment screw. Then all is hunky-dory. Hope I haven't confused the issue, and only you can decide if the adjustment of the rear mount (including possibly removing just enough metal at the front of the flat to move it forward) is worth the trouble or alteration of your gun. Mine were originally basket cases which I rescued with no concern for resale penalty for alteration. Just wanted you to know it could be done and how it could be done. Good luck, and keep that Mannlicher shooting!
PS There is a world of information also to be obtained from the Mannlicher Collectors Assoc. Steve