doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Ferrous Sulphate for Damascus barrels

Hi there,

Does anyone know where to purchase pure ferrous sulphate? Ive found it at numerous drug stores in the form of small iron supplements, but they contain a large number of other ingredients and fillers. I assume when Oscar says "copperas", he means pure ferrous sulphate and not common iron pills you can buy at wallgreens?

What are you trying to accomplish?

The original (modified by Oscar Gaddy) Parker Brothers B + W Damascus finishing process calls for a bath in copperas (ferrous sulphate). Im having trouble locating pure ferrous sulphate and am curious if it even makes a difference if its pure or not. Thanks

I don't know just what you want to accomplish (I'm guessing a browning of your barrels) but if you're after ferrous sulfate don't use iron pills.

"Copperas" is an old trade name for ferrous sulfate heptahydrate. This is ferrous sulfate with seven molecules of water chemically bound. It looks like greenish sugar and goes into solution easily, at an acidic pH. The iron in pills is typically a monohydrate, won't dissolve as easily, and has other characteristics which may cause problems.

Most ferrous sulfate is a byproduct of titanium dioxide production, or of steel pickling. Neither is a great source of pure material. The only large scale commercial manufacturer of true, high purity product uses it internally for pigment manufacture. A bit is packaged for sale, in 50 lb bags.

I'd bet the best place to buy small quantities would be a lab supply house such as Fisher Scientific.

You might try this outfit.
http://store.hvchemical.com/search.htm?s...p;NumResults=10

Thanks Craigster!

C M, Would you consider sharing the recipe and methods for this B&W Damascus refinishing process. I have access to a large, LARGE, pile of ferrous sulphate that is from an acid reclaim process adjacent to a pickling operation. It might be interesting to try the technique with this possibly impure form of ferrous sulphate to see how critical the purity really is. I have a few scrap damascus barrels to experiment upon. Thanks, Keith

Here's a tutorial for Damascus refinishing. The process I've been using is similar. I've posted pictures here, search my posts and you'll find them.

http://docs.google.com/View?docid=dfg2hmx7_194gwgwmqdh

Keith,

Here is the process as Gaddy describes it

Parker Factory Process Adapted by Oscar Gaddy: (DGJ 1997 #2, #3 & 2003 #1)

1. Prep as in Oscar’s original process [next page], Steps 1 – 7

2. “Light” Etch in “mild” Fe2Cl3 solution [I used 15%, it was hard to maintain even results in hi ambient temps of FL – Oscar later moved down to ~ 10%, some report using 7.5%]

3. Rust and card once daily, for 7 to 10 days, as in Oscar’s original process, but no boiling (wet card?) [I dry carded with 0.006 wire wheel, need to check speed, 0.005 or .004 better]

4. Only after 7 to 10 passes, plug bores with rubber stoppers (one in each bore with stainless, ¼,” 90 o degree-bent tube for pressure relief), then boil 5 minutes, in solution of 3.5 ltrs water with 60 cc logwood powder + 30 cc FeSO4 . 7 H2O powder (copperas)

5. Rinse well in cold water

6. Soak ~ 5 minutes in solution of ~ 3.5 ltrs water with 15 cc FeSO4 powder (concentration not critical) – a finger should be able to rub to show light metal with contrast

7. Scrub with CaCO3 powder picked up on wet towel (paper or cloth)

8. Job should look good, but can be improved if desired by rusting and carding 2 or 3 more times; if that is done repeat final steps 4 thru 7. [Parker factory on notes 2nd following page]

Craigster, Tom's writing is an excellent resource. I keep my printed out copy right inside of the DGJ that has Oscar's last article in it.

Channing, Haven't seen you posting in a while. Thought you went back up north and went into seclusion for the fall season. Good luck on your project, and post photos of your results. Randy