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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
trevj Offline OP
Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
I'm gradually rebarrelling a BSA small Martini action to become a Hornet.

I'm looking at the taper pin that locks the barrel to the action, not wanting to leave the holes empty, and preferring to use the original taper pin.

Anyone cut one of these before?

Looks like the taper is right at .1 per inch. A little faster than most of the taper reaners I have seen in that size range.

Anybody?

Thanks!

Cheers
Trev

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 28
Boxlock
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Boxlock

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 28
When I rebarreled my takedown Martini, I snugged the barrel tight, and used an undersized end mill through the hole to mark the bottom of the barrel for the taper pin, then filed to fit. The pin on my rifle is for looks, not function. This was several years ago, don't remember the sizes.

David
Montezuma, IA


David Kaiser
Montezuma, Iowa
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
trevj Offline OP
Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
OK. That's kinda what I thought was probably being done.

I got the threads so that I just can't quite get the action snugged home without having to use more than hand pressure.

I am using a salvaged Remmy .223 barrel off a 700, cut off in the front part of the chamber.
I even managed to get the screw holes up on the top.

Slowly getting my head around a reamer and guides to do this with. Gonna have to have some 'quiet time' with a T&C grinder, I think.

Want to make it a convertible, between a 22 Hornet, and a 17AH, but don't have the reamer for the AH yet, and spring is coming!

Cheers
Trev

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,026
Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,026
trevj, I gotta soft spot in my heart for Martinis and take-down/switch barrel rifles, so please do post pix when you get this project done or near. Sounds like a neat little rifle coming. Have you considered a .25 Hornet or .270 REN? One is the "Quiet Hornet," the other is just the biggest cal. you can get a Hornet case to be (I think--could there be a 7x35mm built on the Hornet case????). I prefer the .25; easy to make, easy to feed, kills stuff very quietly.

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
trevj Offline OP
Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
I scrounged up a used barrel at a gunshow, to practice on, and maybe make a walking barrel out of. I was expecting to get a .224, 14 twist, and a .172, 9 twist barrel out of Brownell's, both the fairly inexpensive GM blanks, in CM steel, and not tapered.

Turns out they were out of the .224 blanks and not planning to bring any more in, compounded by the export regulation requirements, which require that I have a permit in place which specifies a part number.... Bleh!

I have been slowly dragging together the stuff I need, though. I have a .22 H. reamer, that I am not sure if I will use, due to it appearing to be a SAAMI spec reamer, and have been pondering sending it in for a tighter fit rework, or just doctoring up a reamer on my own.
I have a .172, 9 twist CM blank that is about 1 1/16 dia, that I was planning on leaving full size for now, that I wish to eventually chamber in a Hornet derivative as well.

Hadn't considered the larger bores on a Hornet case, or the Bee's , or anything else, really. Would have to find a decent barrel on the cheap, I guess.

I did pick up a Treebone buttplate. Kinda shocked at the price doubling between the time it was ordered and when I got it. Ouch. Oh well. Been filing on that a whole lot, too, to bring the checkering into line, and to generally clean it up. Dunno yet whether I'll take the rust bluing path, or try case hardening. Don't think I'd have bought it if I had seen it first, but them's the breaks dealing mail order. Gotta factor in the hassle and wait time on the probability of getting something better on a return, and adding customs, etc into the whole mess...I'll just file it till I'm happy or it's no longer in large enough pieces to bother me...

Eventually I'll get this project to a point where I'll have to muckle on to the wood... Been putting that off for a while.

I should have taken pictures of my set-up that I used to thread the barrel in my Myford lathe! I took the barrel out and test fitted it a couple times, too! Then cleaned up the shoulder enough to get the screw holes up to the top, when snugged home.
Next barrel job is to cut the back end to length (need to do some work on the breech block first) and get the extractor cut-out done. So far, still looking at the same style extractor as is there, or modifying the rimfire one.

My plan at this point for the taper pin is to grind a reamer down, with a long enough pilot to allow me to center it up under a mill spindle, and feed it down, running in until I get my engagement. Backup plan is to build a straight pin, rather than the taper, and cut the hole accordingly. Still planning.

Cheers
Trev

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 63
Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 63
FWIW,

I saw a few multical BSA's in the UK, and talked to the gent selling them - he also menioned using a straight pin, not a tapered one.
One of the 'kits' for sale had both rf and cf innards, and 3 barrels. looked quite nice!
I would give serious consideration to the 32-20 family of cartridges, lots more flexibility on that case head.
OTOH, 22H is pretty nice too (I have one). With the standard chamber correct reloading technique is critical for good case life and accuracy, I use both a Lee collet die and a Forster competition seater. That will allow sub-MOA accuracy.
Still, a tight reamer would be a much better idea...


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