doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com TIG Welding and Rust Blue

On a fluid steel barrel set that requires TIG welding to fill pits too deep to remove by draw filing, can successful rust bluing be later accomplished?

Is there a preferred welding rod brand/number used for such repair?

Does filling pits on barrel sides 180 degrees from the ribs normally require barrel disassembly?

All information appreciated.

Bob,
My experience in welding a field grade LC was that the barrel material contains enough carbon to harden as the weld self-quenches when it cools. I used a low carbon steel rod "Ox-weld 65" then had to torch anneal the weld to be able to file it.

You should have no trouble welding on the barrel, even near the ribs. If you have to torch anneal a weld right next to a rib, I'd wire up the rib in the classic manner in that area.

An etching type satin finish rust blue should hide the weld well IMO.

3.5% nickel rod from Brownell's rust blues well and you can keep the original looking polish. It flows nice and works easy. Go slow - I've welded some screw holes in rifle actions that took me as many as 5 sit-downs to fill. Basically just get it hot enough to melt the parent mat'l and rod. Add a little rod and quit before the surrounding area gets hot. This keeps the heat affected zone much smaller, which is what you want. If you really pour the heat to it you can wind up warping all kinds of things that need to stay straight!

I would use a MIG welder, I don't see any reason to use shielded gas. A mild steel wire will work fine, but I suggest you preheat the area you are going to weld on the barels. If you are talking deep pits, I would hit it, then leave, hit it again, leave, until it is above the barrels lines. Then you should have enough to file and blend in.

3,5% nickel steel rod will be the same color as barrels after rust bluing? Your kidding! Mild steel rods only.

Bob,
This is the LC I sleeved and TIG'd together with mild steel (ox-weld 65). I filed and polished the weld but haven't blued it yet.

[img]http://www.pbase.com/roaniecowpony/image/41215429[/img]

[img]http://www.pbase.com/roaniecowpony/image/54237530[/img]

Bob,

I recently finished a welding a crack in a set of Parker barrels that was about 5/8" long. It was the right barrel. Looking at the muzzel the crack was at the 7:00 position and I had no problem with the ribs coming loose. I used mild steel (70S3) filler wire. I have filled pitting many times and only use mild steel wire. When filling pitting the bottom of the pitting needs to be as clean and rust free as possible to prevent porosity from developing in the weld puddle. You may also want to use a heat sink (copper is best) if you are in a thin section of the barrel. I would not personally use a MIG welder to do this job I beleive it would be a disaster. That does not mean that there is not someone who could do it that way but make sure he has really done it before you let him near your barrels.

Bill G.

....JDW....no shielding gas?....ouch!

Just my take on the type of welding to use; MIG welding is primarily for production welding, with heat control and filler being of less 'on the fly flexible'. TIG has very flexible on the fly heat and filler control and is very much compatible with unique welding situations.

Gas shielding has all the positive attributes and none that are detrimental that I know of.

I don't have the skill to use a MIG welder for anything approaching this kind of work. But that's just me. I'd be impressed to see it done with one.

You may not think so, but I've done it and I know of no better proof than having actually done it. I welded it myself & blued it myself. 3.5% nickel rod works great.

I know that mild rod will work too, but I like the 3.5% nickel. It flows better for me. I always thought this board was for sharing information. I found that the Ni rod welds easier & I can tell no difference after it is rust blued. I thought I'd share my findings with someone that asked the question. I can't advise on a caustic blue because I've never done it. Here's the ad from Brownell's:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/P...EEL+WELDING+ROD