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Joined: May 2009
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 55 |
Has anyone had any experience with soft soldering/ sodering german silver trigger gaurds, I am doing a repair on a belgium double and it has a trigger gaurd with a break on screw hole of guard. should I under plate the guard and soft solder or do you have any other thoughts....
Last edited by Northup87; 08/03/09 04:22 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
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Are you sure it is nickle silver? If so, I'd suggest you consider silver solder/brazing the part.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
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German silver is real soft, I have never seen a trigger guard made from it. Perhaps it iron highly polished??? bill
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Joined: May 2008
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
How severe is the break- and does this "Belgie" have a two screw trigger guard, or a single screw trigger guard. I am curious as what might have caused the break in the first place. Is this a pistol or POW shaped grip, or a straight hand grip with the longer tang and guard iron?
Usual proceedure is to spark test if the guard on your gun will hold a magnet-on the back in an "no show" spot- if the guard will not hold a magnet, all bets are off, and I'd superglue it with some scotch tape for backing, punch a drift through ther hole in the scotch tape to allow the set screw to pass through, reinstall and fuggetaboutitalready!!
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Joined: May 2009
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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OK, silver solder it. If, for some reason, it doesn't hold first time, silver solder on a backer plate, drill the screw hole through the backer, and gouge out the inletting to allow room for the backer plate. You can make the backer fairly thick for extra strength, too. The silver solder will work even if the guard is steel (except it will not blue).
How did you determine that the metal is nickle silver? Photos aren't always dependable, but I see some suspiciously iron looking discoloration in the photos.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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It is Nickle silver Im sorry if the pictures appear to show rust, is just the lighting affects in the picture.... I guess my next question is how close the melting tempature of nickle silver is to the melting point of silver solder?....
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
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Having used a bit of German Silver in my day....I have a hard time believing the German's used soft silver ..(or any silver)...THEN COUNTERSUNK the holes that deep FOR A TRIGGER GUARD...??.....If it was true soft silver, one would think the engraving should and would have disappeared long ago......If it was mine, I would have the metal tested for alloy content.....then move forward.....the DEEP countersink is the give-away for me.....even if it was nickle silver, the trigger guard would have multiple ring dents on the sides....as with any soft metal.....
Best,
Doug
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Joined: May 2009
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
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Nice looking job. Did you opt for a backer? There is plenty of range between nickle silver alloy melting point (you can figure well over 1600 F) and the lower temperature silver braze alloys (around 1200 F). Considering that the guard "should" have low strength requirements, 95/5 solder (95% tin 5% antimony)at around 14,000 psi tensil "should" be OK. If it breaks again, resolder with a steel backer.
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