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Primitive recipe enough, BLO plus J.dryer will do the same I guess. There is no 'secret' ingredients or you just don't know about them - 'trade secrets'. But I know from very old books, there are must be bee wax, fruit tree resin and rosin and ethyl alcohol needs for rosin wink


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Oops, sorry Pete, I thought it had been posted by Dig.

I had this one as shared by you:


"Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 gr
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers. Simmer for ten minutes then allow to cool.
Be careful it does not catch fire -!!!!"

This was posted by Smallbore/Dig.

JC

Last edited by JayCee; 11/03/10 08:30 AM.

"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
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Slackum may "suck" or otherwise be inferior to other products but I like it. I discovered the formula for it and alkanet oil on this forum and will be forever grateful to all you gents who posted formulas and info on it.

I have completely refinished several stocks, and freshened up others with who knows what original finish and they have never looked better.

I think it's a great finish.


JJK
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Jaycee,
Indeed yes, that is one of Dig's recipes.
Geno, I well remember your valuable contributions to the original thread, and yes for sure rosin and the sap from fruit trees is and was a valuable addition.
As we all know turpentine in its various guises is used, but I once got a paint technician to give this subject some time and thought. He came up with a concoction that utilised Napthalene as the evaporative, it worked so fast it was like magic.
Many of the recipes use carnuaba wax for hardness of finish but the traditional ones use beeswax.
Also many formulae use Tung oil rather than Linseed, but beware as Tung oil can cause skin irritation on some people.

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There is some logic to use carnauba wax as part of the mix. At very high temperatures outdoor stock impregnated with bee wax could become sticky.


Geno.
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Originally Posted By: John Roberts
Slacum sucks.
JR


Such sacrilege should not be tolerated...

Last edited by HomelessjOe; 01/05/21 12:11 AM. Reason: These were the good old days before gun farmers and socialists
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I be leave this subject will never end.
Formula to remember 1:1:1. A drying oil, A resin of some type. A carrier fast or slow evaporation.
The Granddaddy of them all is the Brit Admiralty Spar Varnish formula from the days of sailing ships, comprising of Tung nut oil (this was swapped out in favor of Linseed oil because of cost), Copal Resin, Pure Turpentine.
Venice Turpentine is just boiled Larch tree sap, used by oil paint artists to improve the paint's body and spread ability. Good for history not so good for keeping the damp out.
A bit of self advertisement take a look at the F,A,Q, section Damascuses traditional oil stock finish for the history and the how to.


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Years ago I made some slacum. I have just a small amount left..I can't find the recipe that I got off this website.
The recipe I used called for cobalt drier I still have all the ingredients I just need to know how much cobalt drier to use ?

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jOe, it doesn't take but a few drops per oz. Not real critical, sort of a seat-of-the-pants thing, which you use often here.
JR


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God bless America, long live the Republic.
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To answer your question about how to apply the slacum, this is how I was taught by Abe Chaber.
Color the wood. Shake the slacum up mixing it well
Apply the slacum using a thin cloth like a piece of old T-shirt.
You dont have to worry about runs, dust , fingerprints etc.
Cover the entire stock.
After about 3 or 4 hours the oil will become very tacky and scummy.DO NOT allow the slacum to completely dry throughout the entire process.Sprinkle on some rotten stone over the stock. Use a clean cloth dipped in linseed oil to vigorously rub out the scummy finish. The slcacum / rottenstone slurry will remove the scummy oil, at the same time this sticky goo will be driven into the pores of the wood and fill them. The slurry also polishes the wood surface. Wipe off any excess and repeat this process until all the pores are filled and the wood looks like it should. DO NOT allow the slacum to completely dry throughout the entire proces or you will have a hard time rubbing out the finish. Keep in mind that it will take 3 to 4 hrs to reach the tacky point so pace your coats accordingly.

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