doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Which checkering tool angle?

I am going to buy checking tools to redress the checkering on my old Fox Sterlingwoth that only has lines remaining. From a previous post I learned that "flat" checkering would be the proper style for the sterlingworth and so I am thinking I want a 60 degree angle cutter to better leave a flat top on the diamonds? Because I am not attempting to bring this gun anywhere near original condition I will also not be cutting the checker to a new look, just a more defined look. I will use a single cutter to avoid overlaps should the 1:16 lines not be the same as those of any 1:16 cutter I may buy. So do I have the right idea with the 60 degree cutter for the flat affect on this fox? Thanks, Kurt

Kurt,

I don't have the answer but I do hope you post back with your results and what you learn along the way.. I for one, would appreciate it as I have an A grade with old flat-top checkering that has worn flat and I've been thinking about doing the same..

Best,
jmc

There are lines and the memory of lines. If the wood is real smooth and the "checkering" looks like an inked line (happens on round pistol grips) it isn't going to keep the tool in the furrow. Go over every line to get the dirt out; don't go deep on one line at a time. I think doing it almost like layout lines for a two-bottomed tool is best. Do a couple lines in the middle. Do a couple other direction on the diamond. The fresh tracks are something for the mind to follow. Raking light and magnifying visors need help. Don't ride out at intersections; don't go uphill into crossing grain or emerging grain. Don't rock the tool, baby. Go slow. Curved rifflers (a triangular "float" type file) are said to be good for chasing; I haven't tried that. I don't have any 90 degree, only 60. Fine tool with lots of "points" or serrations seems to work best for me. I haven't done much of this so there are those better prepared to advise.

jack

To recut worn checkering i use a Dem bart F1 fine single line cutter.You have to be careful,it may be better to practice on an old stock first. Use an old tootbrush to keep cutter cleaned out.Rabbit gave you some good info to follow. Bobby

I use a 90 for sharp, 60 for flat, I like to call this semi-flat, and a fine tooth hobby hack saw (30 to 40 teeth for inch) for absolute flat checkering. to finish the absloute flat I just touch the checkering with a 60 to smooth up the lines. I usually use the fine tools from start to finish but that's just me - I'm in no hurry. --- John Can.

Thanks to all for the help. I know good advice when I've just read it! I will follow this advice and hopefully with it, it will keep me from mucking this up to badly? I will post the conclusion.

In my opinon take your time ,when something start's to go astray..... LAY IT DOWN!!! take a break and return with fresh eye's and mind ,,you wouldent beleive the checkering catastropy's thay could've been avoided by a little patience.And most of all ,good luck!

And get a pair of reading glasses stronger than what you normally wear.

Also two part epoxy, walnut sawdust, and aspirin?

What Bobby said. Either will work; I prefer 90 deg for everything. Install your cutter to cut on the pull stroke; it gives you much more control of where you're going. On the forward stroke you make a light crease that your cutter will follow on the pull stroke. Also, when pull cutting you don't have to charge the border. Cut a line to within 1/4" of the border, lift the cutter, carefully place it AT the border and pull back into the pattern. Do that religiously and you'll avoid a lot of overuns.