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#195793 07/14/10 11:00 PM
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murphy Offline OP
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I have a 12 ga LC Smith, bought it a couple yrs. ago, was leaving a gun show and I needed to be someplace. In other words did not look over this gun as well as I should have{pretty wood caught my eye] gun does not match up on serial numbers, barrel and forend is 325008 an receiver is 205632.
Tonight I shot trap and decided to use this gun. On first 25 hit 21, then the gun fell apart(forend and barrell came off when I opened gun) upon further inspection, the thin metal piece that covers the space between barrels on bottom was bent
and now longer flat, loose. I can email a picture og this to someone but don't know how to post the picture here, apparently don't know anymore about computers than doubles. Suggestions would be appreciated since I shoot this gun pretty well. If I could send the pictures to have posted here I would be happy to do so. Thanks, and sorry for the LONG post.

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Murphy, if you'd like learn how to post a photo here click on this step by step guide. You'll find it's pretty easy and not involved. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=148935#Post148935


When an old man dies a library burns to the ground. (Old African proverb)
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Hello
Sounds like you had a lower rib seperation, along with the forend hanger.

email pictures to

milowrey@sbcglobal.net

I will post for you.

Mine was an upper rib,

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbt...true#Post184406

Mike

Last edited by skeettx; 07/14/10 11:17 PM.

USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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Send it out for repair ASAP....Have everthing fitted properly. Anyone have sigestions for the right gunsmith? I had a fox with loose ribs fixed at Giocomos in New York...the old lafeaver facility. They did a great job and the gun shot point of aim! It cost me 600.00 included rust blue, barrels looked factory new agian.....thanks all....Kenny Graft SXS ohio...(-:

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Nick Makinson can definitely put this gun right. See his ad in DGJ or call him at 519.471.5462. Nick has seen this before and can make the metal repairs correctly. He will also not introduce new metals that are not matched to the rest of the system. He is usually available to talk if you want to run the project by him on the phone.

Last edited by Montana; 07/15/10 08:45 AM.
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Here are the pictures











USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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murphy Offline OP
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Thanks, Skeetex for posting the pictures. After seeing the pictures and knowing the serial numbers don't match up barrell vs stock, how much money should I be willing to put into repairs?I don't want to repair if it would be cost prohibited and was also wondering if after repair should I be using the shells made for vintage guns or would modern shells be ok?

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Vintage shells will be better for the gun in the long run but you could ask a gunsmith that question after the gun has been examined.

While the serial numbers aren't matching, the gun still has value. Do you shoot it well? Do you like it? Those may be the real determiners of how much effort you want to go through. None of these repairs is going to make the gun other than what it is to you.

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murphy Offline OP
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Yes I like the gun, only gun I ever hit 25 straight with plus I like the looks, so I guess I should at least get a price on fixing it. Thanks

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If the forarm lug is tight, I would clean the raised piece, clean the mating surface, and buy some low temperature solder. Put flux on both surfaces making sure you don't go beyond area or else solder will run there. Using a dowel of the same diameter as the rib, tap the rib back into place, it should lock against the forarm lug. Make sure everything is flush and solder. Doing this with the low temperature solder should not affect the bluing.
Brownell's sells the solder.


David


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